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Veteran
Posts: 422
Location: Herne Bay Kent | Thought I would start by uploading a few pictures of my GTa. I have been a member for around
a year and half and never got round to doing it. I'm currently doing alot of work to it so its
up to scratch for PoL, so will eventually upload more recent pictures.
As a few people know I've changed my PCD to 4x100. I did this about 3 years ago and all I can say is, it was worth while the handling
is next to none. its got a four coloured engine bay, fully stripped out, buckets, half dash, both arbs and 150mph clocks.
I will be changing the engine to a 1.4 16v mpi in may with mpi brakes so will upload pictures as I go along.
the white one is my old build but gives people a idea of how wide it looks etc.
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Events Organiser
MP Admin
Posts: 1923
 
Location: Somerset | Alot of love for this car mate, i applaud you for being different. To much of the same thing around nowadays!
I also fixed your post that sent the page massively sideways instead of down lol |
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Veteran
Posts: 422
Location: Herne Bay Kent | cheers  im currently painting the inside and wheels getting a fully cage next month. looking into selling the wheels to the get som jbm mamba ones or go from 7j to 8j wit ET0
i will be coming to PoL so can have a good nose about if you want haha |
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Veteran
Posts: 422
Location: Herne Bay Kent | Bonnet, wing and wheels stripped ready for painting. Inside nearly painted ready for everything to go in will have pics to follow soon |
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Veteran
Posts: 422
Location: Herne Bay Kent | 
few more of the been done and some others ive got |
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Accident Prone!
Posts: 325
Location: Isle Of Wight | It's nice to see you on here Conor not just the Facebook one
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Veteran
Posts: 401
Location: Dover, Kent | Hi Conor,
you did tell me but I forgot, did you do the conversion yourself? or did you send the hubs off to someone to get re-drilled and studs fitted? If so who please mate? I have some 13x7 starmags I want to try if I can get some spare hubs.
Also have you rolled the arches? Do you get any scrubbing?
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eF38JPuD3cI
Ali
Edited by Alburglar 23/3/2013 11:32 PM
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Veteran
Posts: 422
Location: Herne Bay Kent | I've been a member for about a year and Half just never uploaded pics and finally started doing it  how's the head gasket going?
Yea I got them redrilled mate at m and b engineering in whitstable good guys up there they was a bit weary about doing it but done it spot and the studs u can put it in easy. It doesn't scrub now used to really bad then I rolled the arches more the front are a night mare u might want another set of arches what et is the star mags? Mine are -7 if yours aren't as much then won't be as hard I've got access to a arche roller if u wanted a hand if u go through with it |
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Veteran
Posts: 422
Location: Herne Bay Kent | I also have some spare hubs and can help out with all needed mate. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 763
| metro's handle pants with the offset that them wheels have imo its a waste of blood and sweat |
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Veteran
Posts: 401
Location: Dover, Kent | How much do you want for the hubs, or just the flanges? Front and rear? |
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Veteran
Posts: 401
Location: Dover, Kent | Nothing that cant be sorted. How have you addressed the geometry Conor? Adjustable arms? Mgf? Or are you on standard metro stuff? |
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Accident Prone!
Posts: 325
Location: Isle Of Wight | Conor_GTa - 23/3/2013 11:41 PM
I also have some spare hubs and can help out with all needed mate.
In tons of pieces and no evidence of it going at all |
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Veteran
Posts: 422
Location: Herne Bay Kent | the handling is amazing to be honest. I know what I've done on my tro and it works well and I'm happy with my set up.
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Veteran
Posts: 422
Location: Herne Bay Kent | To be honest mate never bothered looking into all that I just got the hubs drilled and mini rear rubs then got it all bolted together. I'm running a standard set up just cut rods. I've been out of work for 4 months so been not been able to go mad. But the standard set up works well |
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Veteran
Posts: 422
Location: Herne Bay Kent | Sounds like mine aswell haha |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 763
| Alburglar - 24/3/2013 12:15 AM
Nothing that cant be sorted. How have you addressed the geometry Conor? Adjustable arms? Mgf? Or are you on standard metro stuff?
its pretty much fixed the part that would need to be changed . you would have to alter the kpi to get the steering pivot point in the correct place as just altering the negetive camber will cause the car to tram line in a straight line and be very twitchy under braking and with a vvc engine the car would have serious torque steer because the further the wheel center line is placed away from the steering pivot point the more leverage transmits through the steering system as tourque steer. Its not for me to decide what wheels and tyre combos people like to run , just that offset annoys me as altering the geometry to get the car somthing like will always be a comprimise . my view is extreme offset should be kept for the low and slow crew on the vw forums . I am not having a dig at the car in the pics am just pointing out that it doesent work as a performance mod. |
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Veteran
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Location: Herne Bay Kent | That's fair mate I'm only going to a 1.4 16v mpi. I had a 16spi and it only twitched under serious braking never had a problem with high speed twitching. Only changed the PCD to 4x100 because I didn't like most wheel options for the 95.25 and I just so happened to have the minilites. As I'm unable to insure a gti until September I've gone for stance/looks/handling and I will admit the set up helps a lot on handling at low and high speeds. I know it's not to everyone's liking just wanted to be different from the normal |
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Veteran
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Location: Dover, Kent | Why would the steering pivot point matter In handling terms in this instance. It's the same hubs, and say I use the same steering arms etc (leaving adjustable or mgf arms aside for the moment) its just a the same flange (albeit it redrilled and studs added) on the same hubs and the wheels now stick out further. They would have the same castor and camber would they not?
I'm Sure I just don't understand the theory Bruce, so if you could explain it in laymans terms, that would be good.
My cousin has a Motorsport prep firm, so I think I'll rack his brains too....and probably google it too.
...Actually re-reading it I do kind of get it, I suppose that with mini's i never had above 100bhp to notice, but my r1 mini has 160bhp+ on that offset so perhaps I'll have to do some maths after reading a suspension book!
Edited by Alburglar 25/3/2013 1:33 AM
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Expert
Posts: 5629
Location: Letchworth/Basildon | Conor, what are your wheel specs? 13x? ET-7
Bruce, do you know the stock Kingpin inclination on metros? Not sure how running hydragas affects this as obviously its always relating to standard shocks and springs when you read about it. |
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Veteran
Posts: 422
Location: Herne Bay Kent | The wheels are 13x7 7j with ET -7 mate no spacers |
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Expert
Posts: 5629
Location: Letchworth/Basildon | Conor_GTa - 25/3/2013 10:08 AM
The wheels are 13x7 7j with ET -7 mate no spacers
I'm impressed! What size tyres do you run? How much arch work was required front and rear? Rolling or cutting and rolling? Looks like you're running quite low on the hydro too.
I have some similar size wheels and I'm wondering what will be needed. Cheers! |
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Expert
Posts: 8490
Location: Midlands | Alburglar - 25/3/2013 1:25 AM
Why would the steering pivot point matter In handling terms in this instance. It's the same hubs, and say I use the same steering arms etc (leaving adjustable or mgf arms aside for the moment) its just a the same flange (albeit it redrilled and studs added) on the same hubs and the wheels now stick out further. They would have the same castor and camber would they not?
I'm Sure I just don't understand the theory Bruce, so if you could explain it in laymans terms, that would be good.
My cousin has a Motorsport prep firm, so I think I'll rack his brains too....and probably google it too.
...Actually re-reading it I do kind of get it, I suppose that with mini's i never had above 100bhp to notice, but my r1 mini has 160bhp+ on that offset so perhaps I'll have to do some maths after reading a suspension book!
Its all to do with the 'scrub radius'. The circle that the tyre actually turns about. The further you move the centre of the tyre (contact patch) from the pivot point, the more effort required to steer the wheels. On centre the handling of a car can feel 'squirmy' or un-responsive but light steering. So the more offset you add, the more that the steering will want to self-centre. Which totally changes the way in which a car will feel to drive and can induce a 'twitchy' feel overall. You also have to be careful to not limit the amount of lock that is available. The further you move from the pivot centre, the further the wheel will travel on circumference, meaning that the wheel could hit the front of back of the arch.
From a stance point of view it looks great, but for functionality, you dont increase the offset unless the contact point is remaining the same. In other words increasing the width and offset to maintain the original steering pivot point. |
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Veteran
Posts: 422
Location: Herne Bay Kent | Well the fronts flared an rolled quite a lot the rears just bolt on easy it was night mate to get right so it didn't scrub. The fronts are 3 inches wider give or take. Best to get spare arches and get them to bare metal then roll them I'm currently doing new arches and painting them. I'll explain it more detail at PoL if ur there |
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Expert
Posts: 5629
Location: Letchworth/Basildon | Conor_GTa - 25/3/2013 1:29 PM
Well the fronts flared an rolled quite a lot the rears just bolt on easy it was night mate to get right so it didn't scrub. The fronts are 3 inches wider give or take. Best to get spare arches and get them to bare metal then roll them I'm currently doing new arches and painting them. I'll explain it more detail at PoL if ur there
Nice one mate, I'll be there in a BRG GTi vvc with a cream bonnet  |
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Conor's GTa on Minilites
