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Rover 400
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Metromartin
Posted 6/11/2013 7:56 PM (#705692 - in reply to #677068)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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Excellent work!

Looks a very tidy car now weldone!
DotMatrix
Posted 7/11/2013 4:35 PM (#705739 - in reply to #705692)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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Metromartin - 6/11/2013 8:56 PM

Excellent work!

Looks a very tidy car now weldone!


Thanks it is a very nice car i think but it does have the usual 400 problems with driver side airbag and a little moisture in the passenger footwell from a sligthly leaky heater probably.
DotMatrix
Posted 25/11/2013 6:46 PM (#706633 - in reply to #677068)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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as you can see the sealing on the old plastic cover for the heater inlet was non existing and I have been experiencing a bit of water in the footwell so I am hoping that a new seel would fix this. I also bend the flap supposed to avoid water dripping down into the heater inlet back in hope this would also help. Lets see if it helped during the winter












Edited by DotMatrix 25/11/2013 6:47 PM
DotMatrix
Posted 15/2/2014 5:55 PM (#709818 - in reply to #677068)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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Changed my downpipe today in my new garage. damn those nuts was a pain to get off without snapping the bolts or damaging the thread. good thing I purchased new bolts.




DotMatrix
Posted 18/5/2014 10:07 PM (#712180 - in reply to #677068)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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as you can see the front brake pads was well worn down so fitted a new set and also changed to my summer alloys which both drive and look very much nicer










DotMatrix
Posted 29/6/2014 11:05 PM (#712970 - in reply to #677068)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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changed oil and filter today and changed the left hand side rear suspension bush as it was worn out. it has helped to make the car more directionally stabil but I can see that a couple of the bushes in the lower rear suspension arm also needs changing.












DotMatrix
Posted 20/7/2014 1:14 AM (#713352 - in reply to #677068)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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so we got back from vacation and the trip to the UK was great. 2700 miles and no major problems. only slight trouble I had was the abs acting up but a bit of airing out the front brakes cured that, and the catalyst has started rattling from a heat shield


DotMatrix
Posted 29/7/2014 2:50 PM (#713487 - in reply to #677068)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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my experiences with painting my own cars are not that good. usually it starts to bubble and rust come through after 1-2 years and it doesn't matter how I do it, normal base coat, rust proofing base, base and paint. So this time I sandblasted one of the places that have had rust repair work done to it when I god the car 1.5 years ago, painted it twice with rust proofing base paint three or for times with a thin layer of color and finally two times with some 1 component lacquer. it was allowed to surface dry in-between sprays and I know I didn't flatten the base coat so it isn't that pretty, but that doesn't matter for now decided to see if this lasts more that 1-2 years. but at least the blend in is pretty good






Edited by DotMatrix 29/7/2014 2:51 PM
Hamster12
Posted 14/8/2014 1:13 PM (#713825 - in reply to #677068)
Subject: RE: Rover 400
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Fair play for doing all of this to a Rover 400 you've made a massive improvement.
DotMatrix
Posted 14/8/2014 3:34 PM (#713835 - in reply to #713825)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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Hamster12 - 14/8/2014 2:13 PM

Fair play for doing all of this to a Rover 400 you've made a massive improvement.


thanks I have done about 40k miles in it in the 1,5 years since I got it, so it has to be maintained somewhat.
petrol_head
Posted 15/8/2014 11:44 AM (#713854 - in reply to #713835)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


drive it like its hired

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DotMatrix - 14/8/2014 9:34 PM

Hamster12 - 14/8/2014 2:13 PM

Fair play for doing all of this to a Rover 400 you've made a massive improvement.


thanks I have done about 40k miles in it in the 1,5 years since I got it, so it has to be maintained somewhat.


What sort of MPG do you get?
No one over here would do those miles in a petrol.
DotMatrix
Posted 15/8/2014 12:45 PM (#713856 - in reply to #713854)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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petrol_head - 15/8/2014 12:44 PM

DotMatrix - 14/8/2014 9:34 PM

Hamster12 - 14/8/2014 2:13 PM

Fair play for doing all of this to a Rover 400 you've made a massive improvement.


thanks I have done about 40k miles in it in the 1,5 years since I got it, so it has to be maintained somewhat.


What sort of MPG do you get?
No one over here would do those miles in a petrol.


driving normally I get 45mpg depending on what sort of road it is. I think its quite good for a relative big car.
DotMatrix
Posted 27/9/2014 8:42 PM (#714681 - in reply to #677068)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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today I started painting the rear wing on the right side of the car. It had started to bubble from almost two years ago when we welded the wing and I painted it using normal spray can primer and spray can color and nothing else. now I sandblasted it, and gave it two thick layers of rust proofing primer. next I am going to sand the primer down a bit to flatten it and then give it 2-3 layers of spray can color and then give it 2-3 layer of spray-can 1k lacquer in the hope that it will not rust within the next two years again but last a bit longer.










Edited by DotMatrix 27/9/2014 8:42 PM
DotMatrix
Posted 2/10/2014 8:17 PM (#714746 - in reply to #677068)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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so I continued with the wing painting. I am not a very good car painter. it often cracks for me when I apply the paint layers as you can see. in the last picture.






petrol_head
Posted 3/10/2014 10:05 AM (#714759 - in reply to #677068)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


drive it like its hired

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Thats pretty bad, you would have been better off brush painting the primer on.
(might actually be some kind of reaction due to incompatible paints?)
Or use a flap wheel/sander to get the panel smooth and back to good metal first.

Edited by petrol_head 3/10/2014 10:06 AM
DotMatrix
Posted 3/10/2014 12:51 PM (#714765 - in reply to #714759)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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petrol_head - 3/10/2014 11:05 AM

Thats pretty bad, you would have been better off brush painting the primer on.
(might actually be some kind of reaction due to incompatible paints?)
Or use a flap wheel/sander to get the panel smooth and back to good metal first.


what I did was sand blast it down to bare metal, brush hamerite rust primer on and then spray 3 layers of normal spray paint on. My guess was that I should have waited until the brown hamerite primer had dried fully up instead of trying to spray the color on when it was still a little sticky beneath the surface.
my plan now is to flatten the red spray paint using sandpaper and then give it a coat of red paint on top in hope that this will not crack. what do you think about that idea?
111Sli
Posted 3/10/2014 2:00 PM (#714767 - in reply to #677068)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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What temperature are you spraying in?
DotMatrix
Posted 3/10/2014 2:24 PM (#714770 - in reply to #714767)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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111Sli - 3/10/2014 3:00 PM

What temperature are you spraying in?


I sprayes it outside. The Sun was shining nicely and i guess it was 15 degrees
petrol_head
Posted 3/10/2014 2:25 PM (#714771 - in reply to #677068)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


drive it like its hired

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sounds like you just had a cellulose/acrylic reaction then.
DotMatrix
Posted 10/11/2014 10:48 PM (#715659 - in reply to #677068)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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I sanded down the wrinkly paint gave it a layer of paint or two and a couple of layers of lacquer and it helped a bit but on the look.
I know it isn't super pretty but it is much better than what it was







Edited by DotMatrix 10/11/2014 10:49 PM
DotMatrix
Posted 10/11/2014 10:55 PM (#715660 - in reply to #677068)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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I did a few small things on the car this weekend, balanced a wheel and touched up a bit of under-sealant. next year I have to give it a thorough going over (or rather under) with the waxoil as it worn off many places, but touching up will have to do for this winter as it is to late in the year for waxoil (the wax is too thick because its cold and its to wet underneath the car)

DotMatrix
Posted 19/11/2014 10:09 PM (#715806 - in reply to #677068)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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changed the gearbox and engine oil. used Castrol Magnatec 5w-40 C3 oil for the engine and Total BV75W-80 for the gearbox as it was one of the recommended oils from rover for this car.
Managed to get the top gearbox filling plug out by welding a large nut on the plug. Didn't have an other plug so fitted this one with the newly welded nut.
I changed two of the rubber bushes for the front anti-roll bar as they were going bad.
The car has its MOT comming up in 1.5 month so need to get all these small things fixed.










DotMatrix
Posted 25/11/2014 9:51 PM (#715909 - in reply to #677068)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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today I changed to winter wheels, changed the spark plugs as the old ones had done 19k miles, measured the plug-leads and changed two of them to some used ones that were better, changed the rotor and dizzy-cap to some used ones I had that were better as the old ones had done 44k miles and were quite worn, but the next time I order something from Rimmer I will order leads, cap and rotor also.

When I purchased the plugs I'm sure the text said Champion so I thought they would be the RC9YCC ones which I like, but instead these funny pointy-elektrode ones arrived. I wonder what make they are. On my short test run they seemed fine.



petrol_head
Posted 25/11/2014 10:06 PM (#715912 - in reply to #677068)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


drive it like its hired

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It will run way better with those in, but you want ngk r's in really
DotMatrix
Posted 25/11/2014 10:11 PM (#715913 - in reply to #715912)
Subject: RE: Rover 400


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petrol_head - 25/11/2014 11:06 PM

It will run way better with those in, but you want ngk r's in really


what make are these?

I will report back how I think it runs on these, but I dont like the small pointy bit it looks like it will wear quickly.
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