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 Rust Prevention - WaxoylModerators: Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [25 messages per page] | |
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munday |
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 Expert Posts: 5629     Location: Letchworth/Basildon | I found this while browing old threads, written by TonyB and i thought it should not be lost to the archives  PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE - waxoyl INTRODUCTION I latched onto wax protection whilst in the RAF. We used it on external components of radars. Also there was a really thick version used on the actuator linkages, external gearbox components of helicopter rotor systems etc. With respect to rust proofing a car, I have always used Finnigans Waxoyl, but Dinitrol is another excellent product. Waxoyl is really only good enough for cavity injection but I use it underneath as well. Dinitrol do better ones for outside 3125 and 4941. Although Metros/R100s were supposed have been wax injected it wasn’t done very well. INITIAL PREPARATION Firstly before application, give the car a good blast underneath with a high-pressure jet especially where mud can get trapped. I am specifically thinking of the fuel pipe area and rear suspension/ sub-frame. Get ones’ fingers behind the flanges of the rear wheel arches and remove the debris. If rear wheel arches rusty – careful with the fingers. Do a rust check. If any found treat with Kurust, Finnigans No1 primer and then Smoothrite etc etc. To do the job properly good access is required, therefore the following components to be removed:- Exterior Wheels, front wheel arch liners, bumpers, headlights, rear light clusters and plastic sills. Interior Door cards, rear tail-gate panel, if two door - rear trim each side rear seat removed to get at inner rear wheel arches, edge of carpet under doors folded back to get at sills, rear panels in boot to get at bumper bolts and inner arches, cardboard panels in front foot-wells. APPLICATION Although a brush can be used, it is best to spray in most instances. A much more even coating is applied and the spray mist penetrates into every nook and cranny. Finnigans do a hand spray gun (£9.99??) and a pressurised spray kit. Forget the pressurised system, hand spray is more than adequate. Unfortunately I have found the Finnigans gun does not last all that long. “Two seasons” I have found, ie first year ok, second year gun does not work. Eventually I found the problem to be that the waxoyl degrades the plastic and the valves do not work. I always cleaned the gun with neat white spirit and then hot soapy water all to no avail. I did buy an electric sprayer (special offer in Practical Classics 2 years ago adapted for wax treatment) and found that useless as the pipe easily blocked, but I was using it in the March. Also rather time consuming to clean. After several years I have found the cheap 99p B&Q garden rose spray the best. Its small and gives a good spray. Not as powerful or as good area of coverage as the Finnigans one but more than adequate. Again the waxoyl does attack the plastic but at 99p they are cheap to replace. I am now up to Mk20 tubing. Mk1 was about 1976. What I have done is to adapt a Finnigans tube to the front of the B&Q sprayer. Drilled the nozzle out and fitted flange of pipe inside. Then on t’other end, using heat shrink another nozzle cut out from one of the u/s B&Q guns. Cheap and cheerful but works a treat. Tubes? I have one long and one short and of course the standard unmodified nozzle to use. In fact I use two sprayers with the tube permanently attached to one of them. Exterior All cavities should be injected; underside, sub-frames, suspension – bolts etc, hydro-gas units (especially all the nooks and crannies around the rear ones) (cover discs and pads for protection), petrol tank – fuel sender and fuel pump connections, fuel pipe, fuel filler, handbrake cable and adjuster and brake adjusters (all of these can seize), brake drums, front disc stone guards (best removed and painted first). All brackets, under the bonnet, bumper brackets etc etc. Metal coolant pipes, behind the rear tail-gate at the top, bonnet cavities - especially the leading edge, wing mounting points / fasteners, engine / gearbox mountings, behind rear bumper, light housings. If time allows, paint all brackets before hand. Whilst in the engine bay spray around heater and brake servo flanges to stop ingress of water to interior of car. The heater plate seems to be quite vulnerable to leaking. When rust occurs, the rust creeps between the paint and metal thus bypassing the neoprene seal. On tail-gate and doors pull out the rubber sleeving for the cables and treat. Even these holes tend to rust. Pay particular attention to all seams, sill seams etc and especially around the front of the car. Wipe / brush waxoyl onto the mastic of door and tailgate skin seems. The box section at the front of the car seems to be particularly vulnerable. Remove the vertical bar in front of the radiator and refit with stainless steel screws and nylon pads (I used builders’ damp course which is also excellent for making 1” round washers for the bumper bolts). The bottom of this bar is even MORE vulnerable to rust. (The bolts will probably have to be ground off as probably totally seized.) Treat front and rear jacking points. Ensure to get a good layer of waxoyl inside them. On inspection you will probably find the lower half of the radiator completely rotten. On replacing the radiator paint the edges of the fins and lightly spray the lower half with waxoyl. On 5 door cars the flange / seam on the fuel filler housing allows water to penetrate inside the car thus causing eventual rust perforation to the outside. Treat both sides. Although this is not advised on the side of the can I also treat, using a brush, the windscreen and rear window rubbers. I also lift the rubber and force waxoyl in there as well. So far my rubbers have not cracked and are still supple. With respect to the front windscreen it stops the A pillars rusting on the inside and eventually the front box sections. Behind that rubber is a hole where the three extrusions meet for fabricating the A pillar. Interior All cavities, sills, inside doors and tail-gate, inner wheel arches. With respect to arches try and get the tube to lie in the “Vee” between the inner and outer arch panels. Spare tyre bolt, as these can seize thus rendering spare wheel removal virtually impossible. As I say: Wherever there is an orifice a waxoyl tube should be shoved into it. On replacement refit bolts with a dab of waxoyl. Coating all of the bolts etc makes life much easier 12 months down the road when you want to undo something. I have had no problems with suspension or bumper brackets etc. Again if time allows, remove bolts for gearbox mounting bar to sub-frame and treat. When finished clean all glass with a good glass cleaner as it will be covered in fine spray. Also when finished go for a shower to get the god damn stuff out of ones hair! WHEN TO DO IT Well it can be done anytime. I have done it in January. Then the waxoyl should be thinned with white spirit. The draw back is though it is still fairly thick and blocks frequently. The best days are the hot summers days when the “stuff” turns to “water” and then can easily applied. ELECTRICAL Although all the under-bonnet Tyco connectors are IP67 rated it does no harm in giving these a splash using a brush. LT connections on the coil, alternator and starter motor connections, earth star point on headlight housing. Also check for corrosion in this area. As mentioned earlier, fuel pump and sender connections. SMELL After application the smell (sorry stench) of waxoyl and white spirit will last for 10-14 days at the most. When it does finally disappear it will not return even on a very hot summers day. REAR WHEEL ARCHES Fortunately mine were ok when I bought the car. To keep them good I have covered them in neoprene U shaped moulding with the nylon grip inside. I load this with waxoyl then press it in place. Every 6 months I take them off and re-load with waxoyl. For extra protection this flange / seam could also be painted. UNPAINTED BUMPERS Unfortunately waxoyl tends to stain the plastic. Wipe off with white spirit and then soapy water. This problem mainly occurs with seepage of waxoyl from the tail-gate and bonnet. FINALLY If you do go ahead and you have done a complete job, if it is a nice summers day and you go shopping the day after, when you return to your car, you will find several pools of waxoyl around the car. You will probably find that the car seems quieter, if you have sprayed all the panels in the car as well. Give the vulnerable areas (the whole car??) a “once over” every year. So there you are some tips on waxoyling. Nothing special, just common sense really. It is not the definitive answer but after over 25 years of using the stuff it has certainly helped in keeping the tin worm away. 20 squid spent on waxoyl may save 400 squid on welding. It helps at re-sale time as well. | ||
| munday |
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Expert Posts: 5629 Location: Letchworth/Basildon | |||
| gshaw |
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 MP Admin Posts: 8747   Location: Greater London \ Essex | When I get a mo I'll tidy this up and sticky it | ||
| munday |
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Expert Posts: 5629 Location: Letchworth/Basildon | gshaw - 29/12/2009 9:08 PM When I get a mo I'll tidy this up and sticky it | ||
| kemp21andy |
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 Elite Veteran Posts: 1003 Location: berkshire | Well helpfull started waxoiling today. tin worm is bad times | ||
| Saxokid100 |
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e469.jpg?memberid=3428&type=profile) dot dot dot Rally Spec Location: Northwest | |||
| Gandi69 |
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| Expert Posts: 11052 Location: Wolverhampton | |||
| bullethead |
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| Regular Posts: 207 Location: West Wilts | |||
| unattended_article |
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 New user Posts: 4 | During my floorpan repair, I painted most of the prepared underside in red oxide primer to prevent rust, then two coats of thick hammerite (one blue one silver so I could see where I had been) and then finally coated this with a pressuried spray of "Tetroseal" shich is an alternative to Waxoyl. I find hand painted waxoyl all over can be a bit too thick and traps dirt/moisture. A pressurised spray gave me an even, not too excessive coating. I did then use some brush on Waxoyl in the hydrogas areas and rear arches, after i had fully worked back and cleaned the areas over a 3 day period, constantly scraping away and blowing with compressed air. Tetroseal and Waxoyl trap moisture - and hammerite chips easily when hit with stones. So the logic in my method is Red Oxide resists rust initially on the metal, then the Hammerite provides a physical barrier between metal and the outside world thus reissting moisture, and the tetroseal catches any stones/chips as it is soft, preventing the hammerite from chipping and letting moisture in. Then the thicker brush on waxoyl supports higher risk areas as an extra layer. Took me weeks of late nights to do but sure has paid off! Just thought I would share my experiences, apologies if I sound imposing | ||
| Marv_666 |
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 '88 MG METRO 1300 Posts: 1117 Location: Dudley, Midlands | |||
| 100Vi |
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| Expert Posts: 1228 | |||
| petrol_head |
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 drive it like its hired | |||
| ilmung |
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| forcker |
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 Regular Posts: 241 Location: Germany | |||
| KLAS |
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| Regular Posts: 112 Location: Hamburg, Germany | |||
| ilmung |
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| KLAS |
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| Regular Posts: 112 Location: Hamburg, Germany | |||
| ilmung |
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| KLAS |
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| Regular Posts: 112 Location: Hamburg, Germany | |||
| cooper1019 |
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 Regular Posts: 113 Location: wigan | Not sure if this has been mentioned before. When looking how to get some waxoyl into the rear arches i had been spraying from inside the boot down into the arch. I had unloaded a couple of cans down there and thought i had got the arches full of waxoyl. Then when looking under the arches with the wheel removed i looked up and noticed a rubber gromit  So i sprayed some waxoyl in with a tube and the waxoyl came oozing out the seams.  result at last. The metro is a 5 door so not sure if the 3 door has got the same gromit fitted? I did not know about this i only found it by chance Why did rover not fill these up with cavity wax  | ||
| 111Sli |
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 Transport Guru MP Moderator Posts: 4947 Location: Bromley, Kent | |||
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