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Euro GTI to VVC conversion
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Gandi69
Posted 10/2/2014 4:05 PM (#709641 - in reply to #706847)
Subject: RE: Euro GTI to VVC conversion
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Location: Wolverhampton		Worth buying that I think, a rare car in this country let alone yours. Seems to have a bit of a problem with the rear trailing arm though, perhaps accident damage?
forcker
Posted 12/2/2014 11:24 AM (#709705 - in reply to #706847)
Subject: RE: Euro GTI to VVC conversion


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Posts: 241
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Location: Germany		I was really tempted to buy the GTI, but I have no space to store it.
Damn.

KLAS
Posted 12/2/2014 4:57 PM (#709712 - in reply to #706847)
Subject: RE: Euro GTI to VVC conversion
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Posts: 112
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Location: Hamburg, Germany		be happy that you can not store it. just gathering cheap cars won't help finishing your project(s)
forcker
Posted 12/2/2014 5:19 PM (#709715 - in reply to #706847)
Subject: RE: Euro GTI to VVC conversion


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Posts: 241
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Location: Germany		Exactly! More cars, more projects and none will be finished!
forcker
Posted 20/2/2014 7:59 AM (#709966 - in reply to #706847)
Subject: RE: Euro GTI to VVC conversion


Regular

Posts: 241
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Location: Germany		Thanks to KLAS I now have a brandnew Janspeed exhaust manifold!

Although it was new, it got sandblasted and I painted it with the evil VHT stuff.
Let's hope that the paint will really tolerate over 700°C.

I compared it to the 6-bolt manifold and I think it should also work on a 1.8l engine.






Edited by forcker 20/2/2014 7:59 AM
KLAS
Posted 20/2/2014 4:27 PM (#709976 - in reply to #706847)
Subject: RE: Euro GTI to VVC conversion
Regular

Posts: 112
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Location: Hamburg, Germany		i don't think is will work ok with a 1.8. much smaller internal tube diameter .

looks better than with the original paint
forcker
Posted 9/11/2014 9:42 AM (#715607 - in reply to #706847)
Subject: RE: Euro GTI to VVC conversion


Regular

Posts: 241
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Location: Germany		It always takes longer that expected, but work goes on.
Small update:

I installed a MGF radiator. In direct comparison it's a lot bigger that the original radiator!
 


Rust wise the cars does not look that bad. Looks like it was treated with wax at some point of its life. But this also shows the problem with wax based stuff: It hardened so much that it is rock solid will not stop rust any more...
So I will remove it, add new paint on conserve it with a coating that will stay soft.
wax oiled

I am using a MGF rear subframe that is now cut to fit the metro and freshly painted. I am building it up with:
New wheels bearings, new lower and upper ball joints, overhauled brake callipers with stainless steel screws, vented Brembo discs, new upper arms, new upper knuckles, braided brake hoses, new shocks, Ralphs individualizing nuts and arb links ...

The wheels will be MGF 14" steels with 195 45 14 uniroyal tyres. Painted the wheels satin black, added a red stripe and I hope they fit on my car and look good. Black steels with red stripe on a white car with red inserts in bumpers and side stripes could work in my opinion.

The PG1 gearbox got a LSD and was converted to cable operation. It has a 4.2 final drive. Maybe that's a bit to low geared?

I could not decide, which clutch kit to buy. LUK has a good reputation, but is pricy. So I bought a QH kit that was a lot cheaper only to see, that it consists of LUK parts.

Next step will be to merge engine and gearbox, install this with mgf driveshafts in the subframe.

Does anyone know, what screw sizes I need to bolt the gear box to the engine? M12, but what length?


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