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Getting used to it and issues Moderators:
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Re-Carbed

Posted 27/12/2015 3:24 PM (#720691)
Subject: Getting used to it and issues

Member

Posts: 67

I am getting used to my newly-rescued 24000 mile Rover metro 1.1 and have identified some problems that need to be looked at - I'll list 'em here and see what happens:

1. A previous owner looks at though they have tried to drill (yes drill) the mixture cover screw out with the carb in-situ. I have removed the carb and the only way out of this situation was to saw a slot using a junior hacksaw across the casing and cover which then came out in pieces. The screw isn't too badly damaged and still works, but the drilling bottomed it out so that the mixture was full rich with sooty plugs and exhaust, and chocking fumes when stationary. I've cleaned the plugs and the air filter is OK. Is there a rough guide to re-setting the mixture without the aid of a colour tune or exhaust gas analyser? I've had a go and it runs sweetly after screwing the mixture screw out 4.5 turns from it's drilled position and adjusting the tickover.

2. The car sits badly on the road and the tyres catch in the arches with passengers. Does anyone know a good pump-up man/garage in the mid Cheshire area? It razzes about OK with just me in the car.

3. The coolant is weak and crappy. How do you drain and then refill/bleed the system? It looks like weak OAT coolant to me.

4. Where are the drain and filler plugs for the gearbox? and what type of oil, and is it about 2 litres?

Apart from that, Oh and buying a new nearside headlight glass, and changing the oil that was like tar, the car runs great and is also a lot of fun. With only 24000 on it, the locks and struts etc all work like new. Downside - rusty ugly arches and the sills look rough though they are not very corroded.

BTW if the answer is to "get a Haynes" I'll look on ebay.

DotMatrix

Posted 27/12/2015 6:22 PM (#720693 - in reply to #720691)
Subject: RE: Getting used to it and issues

Expert

Posts: 4458
2000

Location: Jelling, Denmark

For sure get a haynes manual, quite usefull.

If I were fitting a new carb i would remove the dashpot and adjust the jet so that it sits a bit bellow the surface/beidge inside the carb there the jet is visible. The next thing to do is then to adjust it further using a gas analyser. I would get it adjusted using an analyser right away. This will improve your mileage and the smell. A too weak mixture can damage your engine seriously.

How is the coolant crappy? Do you need a new radiator because it cant keep the car cool is is the water just dirty? Anyway renewing the coolamt is a good thing. Bleed points are shown in the haynes manual. One on a metal pipe fixed to the engine in the dizzy cove end and another in one of the hoses going to the heater. Dont drive anywhere if your car is warm but the heater doesn't work!

The gearbox fill and drain plugs are on the side of the box turning away from the engine and are visible from bellow. It takes 1.8 liters of 75w80 gearbox oil. I use the total bv 75w80 transmission oil as its the only oil mentioned in my workshow manual that i can find amd as that is what peugeot/citroen use in this type of box. I believe the oil is an API GL-4 compliant oil. I have read that miller oils does a 10w40 engine oil that is suitable and gearbox api gl-4 compliant, but i haven't tried it.

111Sli

Posted 28/12/2015 6:50 AM (#720695 - in reply to #720691)
Subject: RE: Getting used to it and issues

Transport Guru
MP Moderator

Posts: 4947
2000

Location: Bromley, Kent

There maybe a member near you with a pump, or if no luck, check here; http://www.hydragas.co.uk

The R65 gearbox has a filler and drain though I could not remove the filler on mine due to access and leverage etc so filled with hose and funnel via the breather on top. Using the Rover Rocommended Lubricants sheet I filled mine with 2L of Castrol EPX 75w80, as found on ebay in 1L bottles.

For your coolant, put some Holt's Speedflush in, and run the car for a week or so whilst including some semi high revving. When you want to drain, have it hot and remove the bottom hose from the radiator to get most out. I then use a garden hose into as many hoses and pipes as possible and back flush until it runs clear. Most should be easy to remove as they are just held on with a jubilee clip.

You may want to consider that the car is most likely on it's original cambelt, tensioner and waterpump.

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