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 998 A-Series Metro SpecialModerators: Jump to page : 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Now viewing page 8 [25 messages per page] | |
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DotMatrix |
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 Expert Posts: 4458    Location: Jelling, Denmark | MetroGaz - 8/5/2016 9:54 PM Martin Well it kinda shows you love these cars and the challenges they bring. I like seeing what you have done and how easy you make the rot removal job as you are obviously handy with a welder (something I would like to learn) - so do keep us posted with progress and let us know how shes runs? Keep up the good work! MG thank you for the nice comment  it is actually an interesting story about how it runs, it was running great before I fitted the K & N filter but then shortly after it started running really badly and it turned out to be the alternator that was bad making it run badly. but now it runs great thank you, really smooth and strong. and now within not so long it will go on the rolling road again to have the final tune up and then I will know what power it makes | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | I fitted an original digital clock instead of the dash blank that this car was made with which was a nice addition I think also changed the exhaust as this one was well spent and had been patched several times   | ||
| R100_vvc |
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 Expert Posts: 2029 Location: sittingbourne, kent | Love the effort you put in. Should be a bit healthier when you drive it to England this year  ? | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | R100_vvc - 31/5/2016 8:33 PM Love the effort you put in. Should be a bit healthier when you drive it to England this year ?thanks still a lot to do though. yeah its much more healthy now compared to last time I wouldn't mind attending trofest this year. that would be great. providing one will be arranged and that its ok I come over again? | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | I was tightening the bit centre nut at the left wheel as it had somehow come loose and I noticed a lot of play in the steering rack on the other side, so I removed the gaiter and found that the plastic bush had split and fallen out so I took a bush from a MGF steering rack I have and put that in the metro rack as it was the right shape and size and it worked perfectly so far. Also changed the track-rod end to a used one (I didn't have a new one here) as the old one had a split gaiter and a lot of play. I fitted a new gaiter and put new grease in the used track rod and it will be ok for a while.      | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | So had the car on the rolling road for its final adjustment and the result was better than I expected! I was aiming for 60bhp so really happy with the result! 65bhp and 90nm. 80nm from 2200 to 5700rpm! I still have ideas for performance improvements ofcourse but so far its very good. the ignition advance curve can be tweaked a bit to give better response in low revs (its 2 crank degrees out) but we set it up to be right in the top end. ps. don't mind the raised line, it was a run in 3rd.  Edited by DotMatrix 7/7/2016 11:05 PM | ||
| KLAS |
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| Regular Posts: 112 Location: Hamburg, Germany | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | KLAS - 11/7/2016 4:10 PM great results. maybe time to think about a programable ignition, like http://www.accuspark.co.uk/Blackbox.htm or http://www.123ignition.nl/ if you want to keep a dizzy. my best results always were with dizzy-less ignition, https://wiki.autosportlabs.com/MegaJolt_Lite_Jr. , if thats an option thanks I have often been reading about programmable systems. It would be very fun to play around with and would make the engine run even better. I have especially been reading about the specialist components system which is very pricey but includes everything and does both injection and ignition. but to be fair, the ignition is pretty good on this engine as it is. its only slightly out in the bottom, which can be corrected by taking it out and modding the total advance again. the prices of the megajolt system is very nice compared to other simular systems. | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | So the cylinderhead is off right now because I wanted to enlarge the cumbustion chambers to lower the compression as it was pinging a bit. I measured and calculated the compression to be 11:1 before the modifications and 10:1 after the modefications. This will probably have a negative effect on the horsepower of this engine I know, but rather that than burning a hole in a piston. Besides the material I removed from the cylinder head was removed in restrictive places as you can probably see from the photos so hopefully that will even the power loss out a bit.    Edited by DotMatrix 19/7/2016 10:06 PM | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | today I fixed the rear screen washer pump which had corroded inside and didn't spin when connected to power, this is quite easily done and worth while since these pumps don't grow on trees (at least not around here) I also changed the left hand side rear subframe mount as it had come loose. I must check this journal to see how old they are as I have changed both already on this car, not that long ago.    | ||
| Marv_666 |
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 '88 MG METRO 1300 Posts: 1117  Location: Dudley, Midlands | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Marv_666 - 14/11/2016 2:27 PM Old sub-frame mount looks ideal for knocking up polyurethane ones for the race car! It's something I want to do for mine... but don't have any knackered ones to experiment with. Go on, give it a go... you know you want to! first of all my race car uses the mk1 kind of rear subframe mounts second of all I have already welded them up. | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | this car has been having trouble getting really hot air out the heater, only lukewarm air even though its on its hottest setting and the water pipes going into and out of the heater are both very hot. this happens because the flaps inside the heater disintegrate and stop sealing properly to guide the air through the heater element. so today I took a heater apart and now the heater element needs to go to the radiator/heater guy to be tested and remanufactured and the flaps need to have new material applied but this I will do myself as its easy enough.     | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | a while ago the master cylinder had a lot of brake fluid drip down into it from a leaking master cylinder. I have noticed that the braking took more effort than it ought to with a working brake amplifier so I took it off and took it apart to clean it.   | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | so I have renovated this heater to go in. I realize that this is of the early mk2 type and there for not completely the same as the one in this car, but it will fit ok. the heater matrix is from a mk3 or mk4 metro and it was quite easy to make fit. other than that I put new material on the flaps inside. the material I used is a thick soft headlining from an jaguar xj6 which is about 5mm thick and works perfectly. the fabric is glued on with spray adhesive. the headlamp that I have a picture of is a headlamp that I have fitted to this car aswell to replace the original headlamp which did not have a nice light patern. this headlamp is from a late 80'ies jeep cherrokee and is exactly the right size. all I needed to do was move the brackets over. this new light has a h4 bulb and the old one has that strange bilux type of bulb.    | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | fitted the freshly renovated heater.  | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | fitted more sound and heat insulation to the bottom of the car. 1 square metre of 10mm thick rubber granules.  Edited by DotMatrix 2/1/2017 9:40 PM | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | so I have been having trouble starting some cold mornings, but only the first time. as this car has a ballast resister, the coil gets 12v from the starter when you hold the key in the starting position, otherwise it gets 7v from the loom. I have been measuring and renewing bad wires and connectors, changed the small starting relay, cleaned the terminals on the starter, changed the coil and all sorts of things. but in the end it turned out to be this. corrosion and a worn piece of metal inside the primary starting relay inside the solenoid on the starter. you learn something everyday the small copper piece that you can see had broken off was the one giving power to the coil when the starter motor was turning.   | ||
| 111Sli |
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 Transport Guru MP Moderator Posts: 4947  Location: Bromley, Kent | Still great progress with this little Metro. Did you notice a lot of difference with the extra insulation? Do you plan on coming to England for PoL at all? 15th April | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Thanks when the summer commes i think i need to do a bit of painting and possibly welding, there are rusty patches. The extra insuæation made a noticable improvement in noise and heat in the car so that was nice but it didn't make as much of an improvement as i hoped. I think the next place to insulate if i ever get to it is behind the dash down to the pedals. POL would be great to attend yes but i have no current plans no, but who knows, maybe 111Sli - 23/2/2017 2:35 AM Still great progress with this little Metro. Did you notice a lot of difference with the extra insulation? Do you plan on coming to England for PoL at all? 15th April | ||
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