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 Tahiti r100 moredoor meets mg zr120 (with r1 carbs coming soon)Moderators: Jump to page : 1 2 Now viewing page 2 [25 messages per page] | |
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glyn-ellis |
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| Elite Veteran Posts: 697    Location: leigh | |||
| *metalman* |
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| Regular Posts: 280 Location: Nottinghamshire/Derbyshire | |||
| *metalman* |
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| Regular Posts: 280 Location: Nottinghamshire/Derbyshire | Lets take a closer look at the number of grooves...  Interesting. We stripped my other set of carbs to compare needles and this is what we found.  Standard needle is on the left, my needle is on the right. Another comparison was seen in the length of the spring. So we layed out standard, and my set to compare.  Again: Standard is on left, mine are on right. Another slight quirk we noticed between the needles I had fitted and the standard needles were just how damn sharp the points were!  This proved hard to get a picture of but my needle is on the left this time, standard needle on the right. Verdict: This set of carbs I bought from America had been fitted with a Dynojet kit. This was quite a lucky find as the Dynojet kit is worth more than what I paid for the carbs, even after being stung for the import tax on top of the purchase price. HAPPY DAYS! Step 14: Adjust the position of the e-clip to raise the position of the needle very slightly to alter the mixture. Step 15: Refit needle to diaphragm. Step 16: Clean inside carb in readiness for refitting needle and diaphragm.  It looked pretty clean to start with, still gave it a liberal spray of brake cleaner. Step 17: Refit needle and diaphragm. Step 18: A bit more cleaning!  Can even see my spare set of carbs in the background  That's is the carbs cleaned and checked, all we need to do now is fit the fuel pump, connect fuel lines, 5 minutes wiring, then boom it runs. YEAH RIGHT! Edited by *metalman* 2/4/2016 6:00 PM | ||
| *metalman* |
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| Regular Posts: 280 Location: Nottinghamshire/Derbyshire | After the success of the carbs we decided to tackle the wiring (oh no not again!). We need a way of getting a spark to the engine. We decided to go with the trusted megajolt system again. This requires fitting a Ford coilpack, edis and crank sensor amongst other things. Luckily I bought an edis with original Ford loom attached so I could tap into this and run wires to where I needed. Fitted edis: (which is a damn ballache considering where we had to bolt it.  As you an see, the plug with the blue in it is the feed to the coilpack, the two pin plug on the left is to the crank sensor, which reads of a 36-1 trigger wheel that we attached to a machined down bottom pulley. No need for power steering or aircon! Lets have a picture of some lovely spaghetti:  Since the black relay pack was almost redundant, we decided to utilise the standard relays on the nearside inner wing for the starting circuit.  Since we had no ECU, we came to the conclusion that we would need a way of switching the cooling fan on when the temperature demanded it. We could have fitted a simple switch to turn the fan on, but that's a bit of a pikey way of doing it, and I'm a daft sod that forgets things so decided am automatic fan controller would be more appropriate. Here it is:   Looks good, and it works. Edited by *metalman* 2/4/2016 6:18 PM | ||
| *metalman* |
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| Regular Posts: 280 Location: Nottinghamshire/Derbyshire | We then needed to fit the fuel pump. Like a plum I forgot to take any pictures of this, so google may have to come to my rescue here. We bolted a Facet fuel pump to the original fuel filter mounting point on the bulkhead using some 6mm bobbins.  We then needed a way to regulate the pressure. So we filter a filer/fuel pressure regulator.  This was fitted to the offside inner wing just below the scuttle panel. Nice tidy job. We then needed a way of getting the fuel out of the tank, into the pump. Simple, removed the standard in tank fuel pump and fitted a piece of fuel pipe that would scavenge fuel from the bottom of the tank. Simple, but it works. After plumbing all this up woth 8mm fuel pipe, connected the fuel feed to the carbs, fitted the carbs to the engine, I discovered another problem. The HT leads. I had bought a set of silicone leads for a 143 vvc off gaybay a couple of years ago, but they sat in my shed. I had also bought some lead ends to suit the ford coilpack (the end is much thinner diameter, the standard connector will not fit, can get a picture if need be). The only problem now was that I had a set of leads that will fit the spark plugs, and a set of terminals that will fit the coilpack. The problem was mating the two. I delved into my tool kit, and low and behold, a nice set of HT lead crimping pliers appeared:  I'm sure I got some photos of this, but cannot find them, so bare with me! The 2 days worth of effort resulted in this: Success! (Before anyone states that the car looks crap, I'm aware of this, this was just a test fire to prove the point that this system works. We have spent an awful lot of hours tidying up the wiring since this video.) Edited by *metalman* 2/4/2016 6:43 PM | ||
| *metalman* |
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| Regular Posts: 280 Location: Nottinghamshire/Derbyshire | Now that the car runs, we decided that the next logical step was to wire in the megajolt. Again, like a numpty, I don't seem to be able to find any pictures of this, lets just say that 2 of us took a full day to run all the wires into the car, find appropriate signal/live/earth wires to tap into, and to begin to fit the system. After a full day, the wiring was still not complete. I went back to work (yay!  ) but received a phone call a few days later saying that the megajolt was now all wired in and working correctly. Another success! If I can find the pictures of this work I will update the thread. Next time I work on the car I will try and take some more pictures. | ||
| *metalman* |
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| Regular Posts: 280 Location: Nottinghamshire/Derbyshire | Since the wiring to control the spark was almost finished, I decided that I needed some extra gauges in the cabin. Sitting in the drivers seat and looking around I decided that the perfect place to fit them would be where the stereo should be. (who needs a stereo anyway!).  This should fit the bill nicely. The AFR gauge is needed to monitor the mixture when the car is out on the road. I will add 2 more gauges once I can decide what I want. At the moment I am favoring oil pressure and coolant temperature, no doubt I will change my mind though. I am yet to wire in the AFR gauge as spare time is at a premium again. | ||
| *metalman* |
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| Regular Posts: 280 Location: Nottinghamshire/Derbyshire | Once I had decided to fit the gauges instead of a stereo, I changed my mind again. As addictive as the induction noise is, there are certain times when I need a bit of music. This prompted me to find somewhere else to fit the stereo. Then it dawned on me: THE GLOVEBOX! I then set about drilling a massive hole into the back of the glove box in order to allow the wires to pass into it.    Ignore the black dust in the glovebox, it is the remnants of having the dash flocked, its nice and clean now. I then chased the wires, separated them from the loom and put them into the glove box, prodicing this:  And......it all works as it should. This will also be the place for the megajolt to keep it safe, away from danger, but accessible enough to be able to plug into it to remap the ignition. And for a bit more shameless promotion....   A lovely black flocked dashboard courtesy of Al at Flocking Fantastic. http://flockingfantastic.co.uk/ Also, that picture is a little old. The car now has GTI Silverstone seats in it. Much better! | ||
| Benmin |
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 Regular Posts: 117 Location: New Zealand | |||
| *metalman* |
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| Regular Posts: 280 Location: Nottinghamshire/Derbyshire | |||
| glyn-ellis |
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| Elite Veteran Posts: 697 Location: leigh | |||
| *metalman* |
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| Regular Posts: 280 Location: Nottinghamshire/Derbyshire | |||
| Saxokid100 |
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e469.jpg?memberid=3428&type=profile) dot dot dot Rally Spec Location: Northwest | |||
| *metalman* |
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| Regular Posts: 280 Location: Nottinghamshire/Derbyshire | |||
| *metalman* |
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| Regular Posts: 280 Location: Nottinghamshire/Derbyshire | So, a little more progress, started poking around underneath and you guessed it.....rust.    So, I got the cutting disc out and went mad! (after removing the sound deadening by a top secret method)      Then started to clean things up and replace the metal slowly, the weld may not be the best but its my first time so don't be too harsh!    | ||
| DotMatrix |
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 Expert Posts: 4458  Location: Jelling, Denmark | I know that place in the footwell have fun patching it up | ||
| glyn-ellis |
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| Elite Veteran Posts: 697 Location: leigh | |||
| tom reid |
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James didn't show up today, I guess he was tired?, but the fairy God-welder did, and he did this, claims he'll be back tomorrow to finish it off.   | |||
| tom reid |
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More cutting out rot, cleaning,welding and with new sills not available, patching was the only option.      [IMG]  ://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w195/tomreid/received_10154815517385628_zps2ggh0eic.jpeg[/IMG]       Edited by tom reid 19/10/2016 6:52 AM | |||
| tom reid |
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 The passenger side floor and sill was no better really.  This is under the box for the seat mounting bar.  Edited by tom reid 19/10/2016 6:37 AM | |||
| tom reid |
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      Used a full tin of this, might need some more.  And nearly forgot this bit of rot      | |||
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