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jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Started some work on the 'tro today. Removed the front bodywork removed the brake bias assembly i had fitted and the coverplate that the servo and clutch cable fastened to removed the factory pedal box and steering column and trial fitted the new reverse floor mounted pedal box from Optimum Balance. Next job will be to properly mount the new pedal box to the floor and fit the balance bar and master cylinders. I will be going from a cable operated clutch to a hydraulic one. I need to remove the old gearbox, split it to removed the lsd and fit the lsd into 111s gearbox I've picked up. And fit the hydraulic clutch release arm. | ||
munday |
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Expert Posts: 5629 Location: Letchworth/Basildon | Sounds good, looking forward to seeing how it progresses | ||
Johneh |
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Williams R100 Posts: 1809 Location: Chard, Somerset | Looks awesome, I'd happily give you 35p for that. (like the sticker says in the last pic ) | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | I've done some more work on the car today. Part fitted the cage today, cut the seat mounts out, so I could move the seat back for a test fitting. The seat doesn't touch the roll cage, but there isn't much in it, that's as far back as the seat will go. | ||
DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | I love what you have done to the inside of your doors! if the rules for hillclimb in denmark allow it I will do that to. | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Got rid of the shitty hydragas tonight and fitted the coilovers ;D next task is to cut up the spare rear subframe I have, to turn it into a rear beam instead of a subframe | ||
Johneh |
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Williams R100 Posts: 1809 Location: Chard, Somerset | Looking good, have you had a chance to drive it on the coilovers yet? Much improvement? | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Johneh - 8/12/2009 10:47 PM Looking good, have you had a chance to drive it on the coilovers yet? Much improvement? no, the car probably won't be back on it's wheels until the end of feb. engine has to come out to swap gearboxes, aerodynamics to design and fit, side exit exhaust due to rear diffuser etc | ||
Johneh |
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Williams R100 Posts: 1809 Location: Chard, Somerset | Ahh right ok, well, I look forward to seeing your progress Looks awesome so far. | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Attacked the rear subframe this afternoon with the grinder, it's now starting to resemble a rear beam as seen on minis. and here's what I removed from the subframe. . a bit more trimming to do yet though, once I've been and bought some more cutting discs :. Going to look at fitting camber/toe adjustment that, they use on minis. | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Rear beam with camber and toe adjustment is now finished bar painting. Cleaned it in a paraffin bath, to remove all the grease after I took the pictures, so tomorrow should be able to prime it and paint it with stone chip paint. Edited by jasonr 10/12/2009 5:28 PM | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Did the reinforcing of the rear turrets today and fitted the strut brace as well. I stitch welded the 3mm steel rather than a continuous weld.Also fitted the the rear beam as well, can't believe how much lighter it was than the subframe i took off 8-). | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Started working on the rear diffuser today. I've got it fastened on with self tappers at the mo as a temp fix, to get the sweep for the rear. I need to trim it, to fit around the trailing arms and then I will use so ally angle to make the vertical sections up. It will be secured when finally fitted with rivnuts and stainless cap screws. | ||
muzza |
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Nutta With An Orange Grille Posts: 5280 Location: Who put that pit there keep falling down :( | what coilovers have you used on the rear ? | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | muzza - 16/12/2009 6:52 PM what coilovers have you used on the rear ? they're koni's from a midas | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Finished the diffuser today. I've pained the top side with stone chip as it will be up against the bottom of the car, but I haven't done the underside. It protrudes just beyond the deepest part of the bumper The underside is shaped to stop it fouling on the the trailing arms, but the 'gates' run the full length of the diffuser to keep the air trapped underneath to help accelerate it out the rear. . Next job is to do the underside of the rest of the car. I have a kevlar sump guard, which I may use or to cut down on the weight, use it to make an ally plate for the front. The floor of the car will be done in tree parts, left/right/middle. This will allow me to remove the centre section to get to the exhaust. Edited by jasonr 17/12/2009 11:23 AM | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Sorted the steering column out today, lowered it and lengthened it - and I was dead lucky, didn't have to do any welding for the actual column, just mounting bracket. Got the position right using cable ties and a webbing strap. Final position, just need to paint the mounting plate. | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Moved the seat mount yesterday. Next task, remove handbrake and work on moving the gear stick backwards. | ||
Andy |
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This is really interesting, a great journal. Please keep it updated. Andy | |||
Access_denied |
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Expert Posts: 6619 Location: Guildford | You've braced the struts but they dont need it as even if the move they dont effect the suspension geometry like a car with MccPherson struts would and you've taken the strength out of the subframe so this will now flex a whole lot more and alter your suspension geometry. I would beef up the rear beam a lot more and if your worried about weight take the strut brace out as its more than useless. | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | I've put the strut brace in, to stiffen up the rear of the chassis, the same way the roll cage is bolted into the B pillars. I will also be doing the same with the front suspension pickup points as well. I'm not bothered about flex from the rear beam, as it's still beefier than similar ones on minis. | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | After a lot of buggering around, I've got the gear linkage made up to be long enough and to run up into the c**kpit. I ended up having to use the linkage from two different cars to make to get it right. I've also made the throw of the gear stick shorter by lengthening it. Gear linkage Gear stick | ||
Andy |
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Consider swapping the end of the linkage (the part that attaches to the gear selector on the box) for a proper universal joint from a steering column. It'll give you a much better gear change but also allow you to get the gear stick position set up reallt easily from within the cabin. It's the best modification that can be made to the PG1 linkage. Andy | |||
Access_denied |
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Expert Posts: 6619 Location: Guildford | What does it matter if the chassis flexes behind where the roll cage mounts? there is nothing attached to this part of the car as you've even removed the rear subframe mounts. The beam's on mini's are much more substantial than the factory metal thickness, I would be suprised if that frame did not bend beyond its elestic limit on its first outing to be honest. | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Access_denied - 1/1/2010 4:33 PM What does it matter if the chassis flexes behind where the roll cage mounts? there is nothing attached to this part of the car as you've even removed the rear subframe mounts. The beam's on mini's are much more substantial than the factory metal thickness, I would be suprised if that frame did not bend beyond its elestic limit on its first outing to be honest. rear beam is attached to the car via solid rear subframe mounts | ||
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