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Member
Posts: 72
| Hi all,
Probably a question that has been hacked to death but hey. Carried out a search for most VVC information , all in which very useful.
Was hoping though that someone would come forward with a little more info regarding the MGF subframe. I have been frantically searching for pictures and a list on what I need to be grinding off in order to fit my rover 100.
Has anyone got any pics and/or a list of exactly what i need to be doing? Also can i transfer all the gubbins such as suspension units and wishbones etc straight over from my 100?
Thanks
Jim |
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Expert
Posts: 2568
 
Location: Up in the lakes | From what I remember you chop off:
@ the front mounts that are used for an mgf
@ the plate covering the hole that the steering rack sits in
@ exhaust hangers
I'm pretty sure you have to do something with one of the wishbone mounts. Can't remember what though. Reinforce it maybe?
Think that's about it. Hope it helps.
Edit: there are Deffo some pics on here showing two subframes and what's needed to come off.
Edited by GTaddz 24/5/2016 8:53 PM
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Member
Posts: 72
| Thanks for info. Pics Would be really usefull, however upon searching the forum , I cannot find any. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 925
Location: Thinking of vvc'ing my Roadster Brabus :-) | ginger9860 - 26/5/2016 7:22 AM
Thanks for info. Pics Would be really usefull, however upon searching the forum , I cannot find any.
Just put the metro and MGF frame together when you do the swap, it will be obvious what needs
to be taken off the MGF frame and what needs to be swapped over from the metro frame. |
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Member
Posts: 72
| Hi Dave,
Yeah gonna best best bet I think. Wasnt sure how obvious it would be and me being a complete weirdo, I have to be in the know how in case anything isnt prepared properly 
I will await the start of the project and compare like you say. Hopefully everything goes smoothly.
I cant work out whether its better to weld the mount on the original frame or actually fit the MGF frame. I can weld so wouldn't be an issue , just trying to work out which route is easier.
Thanks again
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 925
Location: Thinking of vvc'ing my Roadster Brabus :-) | ginger9860 - 26/5/2016 9:49 AM
Hi Dave,
Yeah gonna best best bet I think. Wasnt sure how obvious it would be and me being a complete weirdo, I have to be in the know how in case anything isnt prepared properly
I will await the start of the project and compare like you say. Hopefully everything goes smoothly.
I cant work out whether its better to weld the mount on the original frame or actually fit the MGF frame. I can weld so wouldn't be an issue , just trying to work out which route is easier.
Thanks again
If you are keeping the R65 gearbox and are never going to upgrade to a PG1, then fit the front frame, as it will have the top and bottom arms
already on, you just need to unbolt the front crash-cans to be able to fit the metro gearbox and engine subframe arms, fit TF solid mounts anyway.
If you may be upgrading to PG1, then fit the rear frame and transfer the top and bottom arms over, there's nothing wrong with welding the sump-tiebar bracket onto a front frame, but you still prob need to source a rear frame to cut the bracket off in the first place, also if fitting a PG1 box, you will need a gearbox side subframe arm from a MGF/TF rear frame as the metro one wont be any good. |
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Member
Posts: 72
| Cheers Dave.
yeah I am using the PG1 in my build anyway.
As long as I can easily transfer all the gubbins straight from the metro front frame to the new MGF rear frame im happy. Yeah Im buying a gearbox arm and mount and also a full set of MGF engine mounts so i have everything ready to go. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 925
Location: Thinking of vvc'ing my Roadster Brabus :-) | ginger9860 - 28/5/2016 11:57 AM
Cheers Dave.
yeah I am using the PG1 in my build anyway.
As long as I can easily transfer all the gubbins straight from the metro front frame to the new MGF rear frame im happy. Yeah Im buying a gearbox arm and mount and also a full set of MGF engine mounts so i have everything ready to go.
You will have to sort out the clutch actuation with the PG1, if its a MGF/TF box, the release arm on the box is hydraulic, so you could convert
to it, I bought a 'A' series pedal box for the plate and pedal and master cyl, then aeroqipped across the bulkhead, behind the heater blower
and down to the slave cyl, imo its better than the cable, especially if upgrading the clutch to 228mm plate and and a heavy plate, also means, no welding the gearbox mount to take the ZR 1.8 cable braket bit, you just use what the MGF/TF uses and bolt it on. MGF/TF PG1 box driveshafts will
go straight in to the outer CV's. |
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Member
Posts: 72
| Hydraulic is nice idea . Only thing is I have a ZR donor car so clutch is cable operated I believe. My plan was to weld the bracket as would save faffing. To fit hydraulic clutch arm is it gearbox off job ? My clutch is ace so wasn't planning to remove but if hydraulic is 100% worth it , I could be tempted. Also , Is pedal box removal and refit a pig ? |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 925
Location: Thinking of vvc'ing my Roadster Brabus :-) | ginger9860 - 29/5/2016 8:04 AM
Hydraulic is nice idea . Only thing is I have a ZR donor car so clutch is cable operated I believe. My plan was to weld the bracket as would save faffing. To fit hydraulic clutch arm is it gearbox off job ? My clutch is ace so wasn't planning to remove but if hydraulic is 100% worth it , I could be tempted. Also , Is pedal box removal and refit a pig ?
If using a ZR box, then do what you said and weld the bracket onto a MGF/TF box mount, It is a box off job to fit a hydraulic arm, pedal box removal isn't too bad, worse bit getting under the pedals to undue bolts on bulkhead that secure pedalbox, then undue servo nuts, then pedalbox plate, you have to remove servo out of the way as the plate lifts out, Iirc, I even turned the ign off mid wiper motor wipe to get the linkage out of the way, dont forget that you have to fit a hydro clutch pedal box back in, I think that you can use your original pedal linkage as you use the pivot shaft for the clutch pedal, Going back to the cable clutch, if you add a big washer or a thick rubber washer to the end of the cable outer where it goes
into the pedal box, it will raise the pedal to a better height (I adjust to the same height as the brake pedal), it will stop grinding the box into reverse, plus it doesn't effect the cables ability to self adjust as the clutch or cable wears. |
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Member
Posts: 72
| Thanks Dave . Awesome advice as always .
Starting the build soon so will start a thread . Hoping you will be my guardian angel if any challenges are to arise ha ha |
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MGF Subframe - What am I Grinding?
