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David's 118SLi
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111Sli
Posted 16/10/2012 8:29 AM (#679356 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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Camskill mate, very good website.
111Sli
Posted 16/10/2012 9:10 PM (#679426 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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Probably the best results from a tank of petrol Ill ever have with the VVC coming.
R100_vvc
Posted 16/10/2012 9:16 PM (#679429 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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your probably find the vvc better on fuel then your 1.1 spi
111Sli
Posted 16/10/2012 11:01 PM (#679450 - in reply to #679429)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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R100_vvc - 16/10/2012 9:16 PM

your probably find the vvc better on fuel then your 1.1 spi


Bring it on then
Saxokid100
Posted 17/10/2012 7:47 PM (#679539 - in reply to #679356)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


dot dot dot Rally Spec

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111Sli - 16/10/2012 2:29 AM

Camskill mate, very good website.
Cheers mate!! wil look them up now for some new tyres....
111Sli
Posted 19/10/2012 4:18 PM (#679689 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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For the upcoming VVC, I've got some custom-ish dials in the car now made from 3 different sets.

- Early K series style rev counter with the Low fuel and high temp LEDs. Although yet to wire in the low fuel LED.
- Rover 100 warning light lens
- Metro GTi 150 clocks.

Some piccies


jonathanpower82
Posted 21/10/2012 5:20 PM (#679802 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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Clocks look mint mate.
AzzGTa
Posted 21/10/2012 7:26 PM (#679818 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


Mr Bodge It

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You say about wiring in the low fuel led, how do ypu wire it up?? I have them clocks but the low fuel lught never illuminates
111Sli
Posted 21/10/2012 7:34 PM (#679821 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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According to Martin, the stumps are there for the LED, literally JUST the LED missing so just a case of soldering one in. The high temp one should flash if you disconnect the coolant temperate sensor.
AzzGTa
Posted 21/10/2012 10:09 PM (#679844 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


Mr Bodge It

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Ill have to recheck mine then as it has the led already there, tbf im not too keen on my clocks, fuel gauge dont seem as accurate as my other verticle gauges
111Sli
Posted 27/1/2013 4:57 PM (#687983 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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I have had for a long time a set of MNX Platinium silver MGF mk2 electric mirrors with intent on fitting them to the Rover. Eventually with the help of Gerrard [Gshaw] and Lee [Geraard's electric guru mate] we hacked up a MGF loom from Tony and fitted them to my car. Been handy in the icy mornings! Some photos;

I ordered ages ago some bogo spec mirror covers with no adjuster hole in, small things.

All the wires we DIDN'T need. lol

Wiring loom for mirrors.


The car was VVC'd over a weekend in November with the help of Liam and Greg.

The engine is of about 92k miles when put into my car running MEMS3 143 from this Rover 25 GTi.


We had delays getting the converted loom but was promised it so started the conversion on the garunteed that it would have turned up on the second day when we would be finishing the conversion. The loom didn't turn up so Liam kindly leant me his for a week until mine turned as his didn't use his car for work luckily at that time.




Out comes the old faithful 51k, 1100 single point, 8v engine. Ran sweet as a nut, felt bad removing it actually. [If anyone is interested in this engine, PM me.] Seriously it's way too goog to go into a skip. Everything is done on it. HG is a new Payen one about 9k miles ago.




Had the VVC all in and ready to drive out of the garage to get closer to the hose [10m] and there was no clutch pedal, dead on the floor. We decided after our longg day to put the car away and head home.

We came back the next day at about 12pm to start, whip the engine back out and check the clutch. This turned about to be the clutch plate was the wrong way round. Whoops. We got it all back in about 6pm and we started filling her up with coolant. It was a pain in the arse to bleed, constant air and cold heaters no matter what we tried, ongoing for hours. We then tried pulling all the hoses off and starting again filling with a hose!

We were very tired, having been working on the car for 11 hours, very cold and starting to bicker- not good!


We would fill it up, bleed, get 200m and the temperature needle would be in the red, although everything seemed ok when idling. Gut instinct was telling us that the water pump had issues, but getting to about 1AM [yes AM the next day!] we decided for ease to change the stat from my old 1100 which we knew was in good order- no difference, then thinking, hoping that waterpump was knackered [first time ever wanting something to be fooked!] we took the old water pump off to reveal this....


No wonder it was getting hot! No circulation. The spindle was turning the impeller as low revs and keeping it cool but any sort of revs and the impeller would sit still as the spindle spun at high RPM. We got the new water pump on [from my 1.1] and it idled and drove ok, so we bled it up and I then drove 60 miles taking Greg home at 3am.

Since getting the VVC running correctly and sorting the iffy water pump it had a bad oil leak from the cam carrier so Sean fixed this for me at the same time as fitting the Kent exhaust cam Liam used to have in one of his VVC engines.
Resealing the cam carrier and fitting the Kent cam;




Since living with the VVC for a couple months I am sure not to rag it whilst cold and I thought about fitting a Oil temperature gauge, to give indication of when the engine is ready for some beans. I made up a fan blank from the soft touch plastic dash surround I bought to keep the interior matcing-ish. Not wired up yet, but it is going to work with a special sump drain nut ordered from Eliseparts with a thread in the middle for a sensor. I have also ordered a Oil pressure switch that will illuminate the dash light at 12psi instead of a potentially fatal 4psi.



Will update when wired in.
SRi_T
Posted 27/1/2013 7:16 PM (#688003 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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Gauge looks smart mate! How you finding the power increase?
cliffordliam
Posted 27/1/2013 7:29 PM (#688009 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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Oh David and the delay we also had from you putting the clutch wrong way round.. Engine in then back out
111Sli
Posted 30/1/2013 1:13 AM (#688244 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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The power is nice! The engine has a really quiet VVC mech. Needs a little tweeking still- I'm sure it needs a new Idle control valve but I'll get around it, these cold days aren't nice.

Car in the recent snow last week


And it turned 53k
AdrianSi
Posted 30/1/2013 10:09 AM (#688250 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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Nice build Have you got the cam dialed in? How much difference has it made interms of response?

What idle problem are you having?

Edited by AdrianSi 30/1/2013 10:10 AM
111Sli
Posted 30/1/2013 11:06 AM (#688251 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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Sean installed the cam for me, so I assume so. The cam didn't make much difference as when I put it in I was running an SPI fuel pump so it wasn't running it's full potential, I still have a restrictive exhaust aswell. It's very lump and sometimes approaching a junction I dip the clutch and the engine will cut out. I can start it fineand it will run normally.
AdrianSi
Posted 30/1/2013 12:43 PM (#688256 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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Just interest as to how many degs of adjustment was required.

You might want to look into the Lambda sensor as a possibility for your lumpy idle and cutting out issue. The air idle control valve is less likely to cause a lumpy idle, what rpm is it trying to idle at? I had a pre cat lambda go down on my 25 GTi, which caused same symptoms as you describe.
R100_vvc
Posted 30/1/2013 1:02 PM (#688257 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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The exhaust cam is on standard pegs, he has a set of off-set dowels but needs to have gauges put on to check which direction is optimum. But before this Dave needs to change that weeping mls gasket as a different gasket will change cam timing and of course that standard exhaust will hold back any modifications
111Sli
Posted 30/1/2013 6:28 PM (#688271 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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Sean with the thermostat and water pump from my 1.1 I am still getting symptoms of a crap radiator. 5th gear at 30 cruising and temp will rise, drop it into 3rd and it will go back down to normal. I have the MGF rad too! Only thing that is different is that dodgey gasket??
R100_vvc
Posted 30/1/2013 6:44 PM (#688272 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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Either way the gasket is leaking, so its worth starting there. Possible slight air leaking into the water system causing the water not to flow well when engine is at low speeds.
AdrianSi
Posted 30/1/2013 8:19 PM (#688286 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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Id get the headgasket done asap. The longer you run it with a weeping gasket the greater the chance of warping the head with uneven clamping pressure of the head. As Sean says these are symptons of the hot running too. Make sure you have the head skimmed when you replace the gasket. My 25GTi suffered a hgf, checked the head with a straight edge, no liner indents but after replacing the gasket it failed within 3K! The head was out of flat exhaust to inlet.
111Sli
Posted 30/1/2013 11:18 PM (#688307 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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Ohh great, as I use my car daily I won't be able to get to work if the head has to be sent away to be skimmed- it has already been skimmed once I think, can it be skimmed again.
AdrianSi
Posted 31/1/2013 1:08 PM (#688323 - in reply to #688307)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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111Sli - 30/1/2013 11:18 PM

Ohh great, as I use my car daily I won't be able to get to work if the head has to be sent away to be skimmed- it has already been skimmed once I think, can it be skimmed again.


Just needs the head height checking once it is off to see if there is a skim left on it. There should be. The hot running could be due to the system not being pressurised quite aswell if there is a leak. The boiling point of coolant is higher when pressurised, so when you introduce it to air, i.e de-pressurised then the coolant will boil. If the gasket is weeping you will get hot spots at the leaking area which again doesnt help with the warping issue. Get it done ASAP if i was you.
Dave Aston
Posted 3/2/2013 2:19 AM (#688495 - in reply to #679689)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi
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111Sli - 19/10/2012 4:18 PM

For the upcoming VVC, I've got some custom-ish dials in the car now made from 3 different sets.

- Early K series style rev counter with the Low fuel and high temp LEDs. Although yet to wire in the low fuel LED.
- Rover 100 warning light lens
- Metro GTi 150 clocks.

Some piccies




Did you put the R100 warning lights into a Gti Cluster? Just wandering about the difference in the circuit board on the back of the unit.

Edited by Dave Aston 3/2/2013 2:21 AM
111Sli
Posted 3/2/2013 11:10 AM (#688498 - in reply to #579150)
Subject: RE: David's 111SLi


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It is R100 dial casing and wiring.
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