Don't take offence, I'm only having a joke!
Posts: 2224
Location: Sheffield | All depends on what wheels you are using, the Minilights on your mates car are no doubt from a Mini, which use a thinner 3/8" stud, so once redrilled the flange will have more meat remaining between the edge of the stud and perimeter of the drive flange. Obviously swapping the rear hubs for A-series Metro/Mini parts retained the 3/8" Mini stud. I ran some late Mini Cooper Sportspacks on one of my old K's, no problem with the correct 3/8" thread stud.
If your redrill and retain the K-series stud, as said by JoH, there's naff-all meat left, as the stud itself is thicker so is pushed very close to the edge. Ask nicely and Eliseparts may well supply the EN24 flange in 4x100. It's dimensions are exactly the same as the standard part so the stud will still be close to the edge, but the stronger material may well hold up, I doubt you'd get a warranty with it though! A-series Metro flanges are totally different and will not fit.
If you want the rears on 4x100 with K-series studs, you'll have to have the hole reamed, an over-size insert pressed in, and then the PCD drilled, but again, it will be close to the edge. You'd also have to do the same with a Mini rear hub, as 4x4" and 4x100 aren't the same measurement. So to be spot-on the same process needs to be applied. The other option is to ask Minisport to supply a pair of their alloy rear hubs undrilled (which they will do but you may have to wait for the next batch to be made), then you can get your engineer to drill the PCD. The good thing with the alloy rear hubs is that the nature of their design allows a couple of PCD's to be drilled if needed. Look on the back of the standard rear hubs and you can only have the studs in one location. Then you just need to redrill or elongate the holes in the discs and drums.
Adaptors may be a fooker on a K-series, particularly on the front as the standard wheels run close to the arch, let alone another rim with an adaptor, 15mm would be about the maximum thickness adaptor to run, and with that I'd be wanting the thread the flanges to use a bolt rather than a stud to affix the adapter so you can turn the head down on the bolt to allow the new wheel to sits flush (assuming the casting of the new heel has a flush mounting face).
HTH. |