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vvc swap guide?
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t3gav
Posted 1/2/2012 12:45 PM (#646169)
Subject: vvc swap guide?
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Location: Herts
Tried searching but not much luck, is there a comprehensive guide on doing these conversions and the differences in engine specs etc? Also is there a way of searching the topic title instead of the text body?
Jack of Hearts
Posted 1/2/2012 1:17 PM (#646178 - in reply to #646169)
Subject: RE: vvc swap guide?


Track Slag

Posts: 5060
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Location: Washington
When you posted this did you look at the sticky at the top of the page?

It's a bit confusing I know, we should really come up with a better thread title than "vvc conversion guide"

http://www.metropower.org.uk/forum/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=57252&start=1
t3gav
Posted 1/2/2012 1:44 PM (#646184 - in reply to #646169)
Subject: RE: vvc swap guide?
Elite Veteran

Posts: 664
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Location: Herts
Ha ha what a twat I am, I flicked through that thread but though it was all 1.4 stuff, is there a thread detailing all the different engine specs i.e lotus, caterham, mg, will hunt on wiki
Jack of Hearts
Posted 1/2/2012 1:49 PM (#646188 - in reply to #646169)
Subject: RE: vvc swap guide?


Track Slag

Posts: 5060
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Location: Washington
What do you want to do and maybe I could point you in the right direction?
t3gav
Posted 1/2/2012 1:57 PM (#646189 - in reply to #646169)
Subject: RE: vvc swap guide?
Elite Veteran

Posts: 664
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Location: Herts
Just trying to soak up as much info as possible, am guessing the engine of choice is the 1.8 160bhp vvc from the MG's? And the best base car is an mpi to make life easier?
Jack of Hearts
Posted 1/2/2012 2:04 PM (#646190 - in reply to #646169)
Subject: RE: vvc swap guide?


Track Slag

Posts: 5060
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Location: Washington
Best base car would be a Mpi gti. However if you want to go turbo that would change to a Mpi r100.

If its a second car. Tbh just get the very best shell you can find.

Best doner? Tf 160.
t3gav
Posted 1/2/2012 2:36 PM (#646195 - in reply to #646169)
Subject: RE: vvc swap guide?
Elite Veteran

Posts: 664
5001002525
Location: Herts
Thanks, are the turbo lumps not very heavy and cause a lot of understeer or is that a bit of a myth?
Jack of Hearts
Posted 1/2/2012 3:01 PM (#646197 - in reply to #646169)
Subject: RE: vvc swap guide?


Track Slag

Posts: 5060
50002525
Location: Washington
No your thinking about the t series, there was a k series turbo that appeared in the zt/75
t3gav
Posted 1/2/2012 3:49 PM (#646204 - in reply to #646169)
Subject: RE: vvc swap guide?
Elite Veteran

Posts: 664
5001002525
Location: Herts
Ah, thanks
t3gav
Posted 23/3/2012 11:23 AM (#653109 - in reply to #646169)
Subject: RE: vvc swap guide?
Elite Veteran

Posts: 664
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Location: Herts
Why are the mpi R100's better for the turbo vvc, purely due to the engine bay size?
petrol_head
Posted 23/3/2012 11:33 AM (#653110 - in reply to #646169)
Subject: RE: vvc swap guide?


drive it like its hired

5000500050002000500100100100100
You want a 1990-onwards
Rover Metro OR Rover 100/111/114 as a donor vehicle

The you need a K series 1.1/1.4/1.6/1.8 engine with manifolds

If going 1.8 VVC (variable valve control either 143bhp 145ps or 160ps)

You then need to make a decision wether or not to keep the metro gearbox

If keeping metro gearbox:

Then you need a flywheel to accept the 200mm clutch.

You fit engine to metro. swap metro engine mount onto new engine.

You then fit the engine and manifolds


Then use the ENGINE wiring LOOM from the chosen engine and modify it to plug into the metro CAR wiring LOOM and fusebox.

Use the alternator from the donor engine aswell.

If using a 143bhp engine:

Then you need a 1.4 metro gti MPI downpipe unless you used this vehicle as your donor.

If using 145/160ps engine:
You need to fit older exhaust MANIFOLD and do as above.
Or make your own downpipe to mate with metro exhaust/cat


To make the immobiliser work and get the engine to run you need to do this.

Fit the 5as box into the car. The engine ecu needs to recieve a signal from this.
Depending on donor car Rover 100 or Metro.
You will need to do additional wiring.

Thats about it.
You also need an MPI fuel pump to supply enough pressure to feed 4x injectors.

Then you need to sort rad hoses. You can do this using off the shelf parts but lots of combos can work.

Please dont ask for wiring step by step guides as if you dont know how to figure that out its best to buy a converted loom
t3gav
Posted 23/3/2012 12:21 PM (#653112 - in reply to #646169)
Subject: RE: vvc swap guide?
Elite Veteran

Posts: 664
5001002525
Location: Herts
Brill thanks
Cliff
Posted 19/10/2016 6:59 PM (#722795 - in reply to #646169)
Subject: RE: vvc swap guide?


Member

Posts: 45
25
Location: Treviso, Italy
Hey champs, I really need your support!

I was living in Scoltand for the past few years and I left back home in Italy my Metro GTi. Once I was back home I decided to take it on the road again so I have bring it to the garage for a standard servicing and MOT. Basically the send me out without oil in the engine... I am still swearing after months!! Those bastards... I had not compensation about it, but it is not point to keep looking back.

It is a shame cause I have been putting lots and lots of money on the car.

The good news is I found a good mechanic, he is also a close friend and he offered me to work on it in his spare time. We checked the engine and it is gone... I mean there are major damage and is gonna cost me a fortune to fix it, so I believe the only way it is to replace it.

Decided to go for it, I am really considering it could be great to proceed with a 1.8 VVC conversion. Mine is a 1991 114 1.4 Rover Metro GTi 16v (Multi point) and I would love to put in it the 1.8 VVC engine 160cv.

Now before proceeding I would like to get all the possible info and suggestion to make sure I am going in the right way. Plus I will looking for parts, and I want to be sure about this as well. I hope somebody of you could help me so I could make things running smoothly.

I have read posts from the past and from other forums to get a general view how this conversion is working and what I need for it.



I'll be going for points, to make more clear as possible:


---> ENGINE: I have decided to go for the 1.8 VVC 160ps and I am looking for a fresh one with a low mileage.
I do not know if it worth to buy it online, on ebay.co.uk there are some with about 20k on sale for about a grand. It could be "trustable" for your experiences to buy something like that or it is highly risky. There are any guarantees?
Someone says never buy a second hand engine without listen it running....dunno!
In the next few days I will try to have a look at some scrap yards around here, but I know it really rare to find this type of engine.
Do you know who can supply a good one in UK? Are the engine support the same or do I need to make any modifications?


---> GEARBOX: I have seen a lot of conflicting views about it. Looks like between PG1 and R65 there are so many different opinions.
Personally I am thinking to keep the R65 gearbox that should be installed right now because (if I am correct) with the PG1 I need to change drive shafts, gear linkage etc... so the job it is gonna be more complicated.
For what I read, to install the 1.8 with the R65 I need a different flywheel, clutch and thrust bearing. They told me I can use those part from a 1.6 Rover 200 (1995/1999)... is that correct? Could be from other models? Which are the specifics?
I am considering also to get a LSD it is a shame i has been sold one on the forum. Do you know where I can found one (possibly second hand) for the R65? Adding a diff is something the worth it for you?


---> WIRING LOOM: I have some doubts about it, didn't understand how works the 5AS alignment thing.
I would like to maintain working the immobiliser with the wee key and I do not care at all to have the remote door look.
What I need for sure is the ECU and 5as box from the 1.8, fuse box as well from the donor and I will need to modify the wiring loom.
I would like to find a plug and play wiring (ready to go). I have tried to contact for this Talon Sport Cars (http://www.talonsportscars.com) but the emails are not going through. Are they out of business?
Do you know where else I can find it? What are your suggestions?
On talon website they were selling this MEMS Code Generator, do I need one? What is it?


---> OTHERS: It will be necessary the alternator and the starter motor from the 1.8 engine.
What about the fuel pump? I assume I need the one from the 1.8, correct? Or can I use the original fuel pump and add a fuel pressure regulator?
Ignition coil maybe? Anything else?


---> RADIATORS: Radiator seems I can keep the original one. Do you recommend me any changes about it?
On Talon sport cars I have seen a custom 2 core radiator, is that a better upgrade or it is just for more powerful solutions?
Somebody told me it will be better to install an oil radiator, what do ya think?
I have SAMCO hoses at the moment I hope they will fit in someway.


---> EXHAUST MANIFOLD: which one I must use? Right now I am mounting the original manifold + Ashley Exhaust.




Sorry for bothering you with this shitload of questions but I dunno where else to ask.... I am lost!



ding
Posted 19/10/2016 9:01 PM (#722796 - in reply to #646169)
Subject: RE: vvc swap guide?


200010010010025
Doubt those VVC's have done 20k, and wouldn't pay a grand for one either way. It's better to hear the engine running if you can, but not always possible. I've bought engines from scrapyards and some have ran spot on, but others were shot. I bought a VVC for a member on here awhile ago and was told it ran fine, only for him to fit it and finding out it had 2 holes in the pistons making it scrap. Some other 30 days warranty but don't mean shit. The engine support (mounts) need swapping from the timing belt end from the metro's engine onto the 1.8, and only that if your staying R65.

I like the R65 in a metro strapped to a VVC, it makes it accelerate a lot quicker than a PG1. Most will say it depends what ratios the PG1 has, but I've tried a few and think the R65 is still the better box. I used a 1.6 flywheel from a Rover 400, but most rover 1.6's use the same size, so a R200 400 etc will do, but make sure it's a 4 pole, and use a 200mil clutch. I believe LSD's are very rare and hard to find for the R65. If you go PG1 you'll need a mgf/tf subframe 'modified' and shafts, engine spacers, selector rods etc like you said.. 



Wiring isn't my thing, but AdrianSi and a couple of others on here can sort you a loom, but they all use facebook shit these days, so maybe better off contacting them on there. You don't need the fusebox from the donor car, just the fob/s ecu and 5as with the right mfu. The 5as immobiliser is better than the one you have now. 

You use the alternator on the 1.8 with the metros belt, after removing the aircon pump etc from the 1.8. Starter motor depends what gearbox you plan to use. Use the Metro's starter if your keeping the R65, or fit one from a 1.6 rover as its a little stronger. Or if your fitting a PG1, you'll need a PG1 starter motor. The fuel pump is fine as it is as it's already a MPi fuel pump. Ignition coil isn't needed as the VVC has coil packs on top of the engine. 

Most people fit a MGF rad or a derv, but I used my GTi's rad as it was mint and didn't have any cooling problems with a 82 stat.

You can use the manifold and exhaust your using now, but to get the best power use a VVC manifold modded to fit. Easy enough, just weld a sections onto the down pipe.
Someone with more info may pop in and tell you more if they can get off facebook and away from the online friends
Cliff
Posted 20/10/2016 3:46 PM (#722800 - in reply to #646169)
Subject: RE: vvc swap guide?


Member

Posts: 45
25
Location: Treviso, Italy
Thanks man!
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