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boloko12

Posted 16/2/2006 12:09 PM (#110454)
Subject: Rear Subframe

New user

Posts: 3

I have a 1986 C reg Austin Metro that has just failed the MOT on excessive corrosion to the rear subframe mounts on one side, and buckling arond the mounts on the other. In order to make a proper repair I have been told that the rear subframe must be removed and plates welded in. I have been given horrendous quotes for removing the subframe and would therefore like to attempt to remove it myself. I was just wondering if anyone could give me some tips on removing it. I fear that it will be an awful job as it has not been touched in 20 years!!!

M'coli

Posted 16/2/2006 3:44 PM (#110508 - in reply to #110454)
Subject: RE: Rear Subframe

Regular

Posts: 183
100

Location: Just north of Leeds

Buy a Haynes manual, read the suspension section. You'll have to drop the subframe, but remember to disconnect the brake flexihoses beforehand. You don't have to depressurise the suspension because on the mk2.

As for the welding itself, it's a major job to get it right. Be prepared to not have a car for some time. Here's the pictures of when I did mine...

Before (is that why I could smell petrol?)

During, whilst measureing up to build the fuel filler cowl...

and finally...

boloko12

Posted 17/2/2006 7:05 AM (#110638 - in reply to #110508)
Subject: RE: Rear Subframe

New user

Posts: 3

Thanks for that, why is it not necessary to depressurise the suspension? Is it connected from side to side rather than back to front?

Metromartin

Posted 17/2/2006 7:32 AM (#110644 - in reply to #110454)
Subject: RE: Rear Subframe

MP Admin

Posts: 17870
5000

Location: Gloucester

I've removed a rear subframe on a scrap car in about 30mins and is rather easy tbh.

As pictured the 3 bulky 13mm bolts either side. Then the hydro unit metal straps which is another 13mm nut but your need a 13mm ring spanner for this and the bolt has a long thread and I couldn't get my socket on.
With the car in the air I think it would be posible to remove the system while pressurised as the A-series is link side to side. May even be posible on a K-series but you would be able to move the subframe much distance away from the car.

Where the main subframe bolts are is a good mud trap so is avised for everyone to get the hose out on full blast and clear all the crud out from this location to provent this.

As the rear subframe is easy to remove I'd rather do this than replace a worn radius arm which is a comman MOT fail if the grease points have been missed!

Metro_Si

Posted 17/2/2006 7:32 AM (#110646 - in reply to #110454)
Subject: RE: Rear Subframe

Elite Veteran

Posts: 872
500

Location: Wiltshire

Yes on your car it is connected left to right.

Alex.

MarkElvin

Posted 17/2/2006 9:57 AM (#110710 - in reply to #110454)
Subject: RE: Rear Subframe

While you are at it, make up some solid mounts. Dosn't take much, make a huge difference.

Does become slightly noisey though.

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