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rear cans
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kilmory
Posted 21/10/2015 8:20 AM (#720002)
Subject: rear cans


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Due to the shortage of rear gti cans has anyone tried a set of front mgf cans with external dampers on the rear? alternatively has anyone made a bracket strong enough to take the abuse from a full coilover mounted on the trailing arm.
 
Dave 20VTRO
Posted 21/10/2015 7:17 PM (#720011 - in reply to #720002)
Subject: RE: rear cans
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kilmory - 22/10/2015 7:20 AM

Due to the shortage of rear gti cans has anyone tried a set of front mgf cans with external dampers on the rear? alternatively has anyone made a bracket strong enough to take the abuse from a full coilover mounted on the trailing arm.


Mgf rear cans are the ones to fit as they have medium internal damping, front MGF cans will fit, but have low damping, MGf Supercup cans have very low damping so you can have adjustable external damping for racing. You can get ex metro cup brackets and turrets to take external dampers.
I have rear turrets and coilovers with the bottom of the coilovers bolted directly into the centre of the rear hub, no problems so far for the last 6yrs, you can get rear brackets to bolt the bottom of the coilovers to the radius arm if you prefer.
Just click on 'search' and type in 'rear dampers' and 'all posts'. that should give you enough info.


 
zxbikerboy
Posted 21/10/2015 10:06 PM (#720015 - in reply to #720002)
Subject: RE: rear cans


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Location: milton keynes
Hijacking your thread a little, how can you tell the difference between all the cans? I have a wide selection but the only noticeable difference I can see at a glance is where the valve attachment is. Thanks
 
Dave 20VTRO
Posted 21/10/2015 11:55 PM (#720017 - in reply to #720015)
Subject: RE: rear cans
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zxbikerboy - 22/10/2015 9:06 PM

Hijacking your thread a little, how can you tell the difference between all the cans? I have a wide selection but the only noticeable difference I can see at a glance is where the valve attachment is. Thanks


There is a number on top of the can printed on in green, Iirc mgf rears have '020' at the end and the fronts have '070',
GTi rears are 'NAM ###34' std metro/100 rears are 'NAM###33' (its been a while since I've had anything to do with cans as I've been on coilovers for a few years now).
 
beany113
Posted 22/10/2015 6:40 AM (#720020 - in reply to #720017)
Subject: RE: rear cans


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Dave 20VTRO - 21/10/2015 11:55 PM

zxbikerboy - 22/10/2015 9:06 PM

Hijacking your thread a little, how can you tell the difference between all the cans? I have a wide selection but the only noticeable difference I can see at a glance is where the valve attachment is. Thanks


There is a number on top of the can printed on in green, Iirc mgf rears have '020' at the end and the fronts have '070',
GTi rears are 'NAM ###34' std metro/100 rears are 'NAM###33' (its been a while since I've had anything to do with cans as I've been on coilovers for a few years now).


Sorry to hijack the treat a little but dave, how do you find and compare the coilovers to a metro with good cans and well individualised? Thanks
 
Dave 20VTRO
Posted 22/10/2015 9:46 PM (#720034 - in reply to #720020)
Subject: RE: rear cans
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Location: Thinking of vvc'ing my Roadster Brabus :-)
beany113 - 23/10/2015 5:40 AM

Dave 20VTRO - 21/10/2015 11:55 PM

zxbikerboy - 22/10/2015 9:06 PM

Hijacking your thread a little, how can you tell the difference between all the cans? I have a wide selection but the only noticeable difference I can see at a glance is where the valve attachment is. Thanks


There is a number on top of the can printed on in green, Iirc mgf rears have '020' at the end and the fronts have '070',
GTi rears are 'NAM ###34' std metro/100 rears are 'NAM###33' (its been a while since I've had anything to do with cans as I've been on coilovers for a few years now).


Sorry to hijack the treat a little but dave, how do you find and compare the coilovers to a metro with good cans and well individualised? Thanks


Coilovers are much better, its a lot easier to adjust the poundage and height to suit, no draining of hydro fluid, cutting cones, hoping that you have got rid of all the air when re-pressursing. coilovers are not effected by ambient temp, damping can be adjusted easily. coilovers are probably a bit lighter than hydro setup, plus you can lighten the rear subframe as well by cutting out all the area that supports the hydro cans, also the radius arm bearings are stressed less as they only need to support the cars weight and not that and being under constant force of being pushed forwards by the cans/rods.
 
zxbikerboy
Posted 26/10/2015 2:12 PM (#720096 - in reply to #720017)
Subject: RE: rear cans


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Posts: 65
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Location: milton keynes
Thanks for the info, I have a pair which look fairly new with NAM 2731? any ideas and a pair which have red writing on but can't make out the numbers.
What would peoples recommendation be for track set up?

Thanks


Dave 20VTRO - 21/10/2015 11:55 PM

zxbikerboy - 22/10/2015 9:06 PM

Hijacking your thread a little, how can you tell the difference between all the cans? I have a wide selection but the only noticeable difference I can see at a glance is where the valve attachment is. Thanks


There is a number on top of the can printed on in green, Iirc mgf rears have '020' at the end and the fronts have '070',
GTi rears are 'NAM ###34' std metro/100 rears are 'NAM###33' (its been a while since I've had anything to do with cans as I've been on coilovers for a few years now).
 
kilmory
Posted 23/10/2015 12:39 PM (#720041 - in reply to #720002)
Subject: RE: rear cans


Member

Posts: 35
25
definitely going coilover now just ordered a set of ralfs turrets think it will be a set of avo 3 way adjustable dampers,what sort of poundage is everyone else running? and do you keep the roll bar or remove it and up the spring rate?
 
Jin
Posted 23/10/2015 1:58 PM (#720047 - in reply to #720002)
Subject: RE: rear cans
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kilmory - 21/10/2015 1:20 PM

alternatively has anyone made a bracket strong enough to take the abuse from a full coilover mounted on the trailing arm.


Working on it ...
 
Dave 20VTRO
Posted 23/10/2015 8:36 PM (#720063 - in reply to #720002)
Subject: RE: rear cans
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Location: Thinking of vvc'ing my Roadster Brabus :-)
Here's my setup, note that I got rid of the 'C' bracket for the droplink, I removed the 8mm bolt that holds the brake backplate and drilled through the radius arm for the 10mm bolt that goes through the droplink, this makes the angle 90deg of the droplink to the arb, so it works better.
The lower bolt for the coilover (12mm) is tapped into the centre of the hub by about 25mm depth, the spacer is req so as the angle the coilover spring clears the rim/tyre. Spring rate is 180lb/in, front springs (TF frame), are 700lb/in. The 'washer' behind the cable tie is a adj bump platform that acts on the Gti bump-stops.




Rear subframe lightened and powder coated, note the handbrake cable is on the opposite side to normal as I have a big ex silencer where the fuel tank used to be with 3" pipework over the subframe where the std cable would be in the way getting hot, having the cable on the wrong side gives it a clear run away from the exhaust, the handbrake lever is between the dvrs seat and door, lots of older cars had this arrangement, plus some modern ones like Lambo's.


Edited by Dave 20VTRO 23/10/2015 8:42 PM
 
kilmory
Posted 23/10/2015 9:29 PM (#720066 - in reply to #720002)
Subject: RE: rear cans


Member

Posts: 35
25
some good ideas there, i like the adjustable bumpstop spacer,never thought of putting the arb links there, handbrake cables are sorted with bike cable and a hydraulic flyoff on mine, but good tip for others.
 
Saxokid100
Posted 26/10/2015 1:59 AM (#720088 - in reply to #720002)
Subject: RE: rear cans


dot dot dot Rally Spec

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Location: Northwest
That looks pretty good setup for on the rear.
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