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jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Today I got frame that the radiator sits on, the air from the radiator will be ducted out of the bonnet. Before I moved up north, it was decided a 'strut' brace wouldn't go amiss - to remove any chance of flex from the engine bay. Edited by jasonr 29/9/2012 7:37 PM | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Well that's the rest of the exhaust system ordered 2 x http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220566337249?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 2 x http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110955206491?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 1 x http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110955077226?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Productive day today, made a mount for the header tank moving it to the n/s of the car. Finished the mock up of the exhuast system, just waiting for some sleaves to allow me to slip joint the section from the first silencer to the engine bay. Also got the battery mount sorted out today - next task mounting the extinguisher. | ||
DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | I suppose the box where your exhaust is routed in will be open down towards the road and closed up towards the cabin so that it wont allow exhaust fumes to get into the car and will vent out heat? dont you need a flexi pipe somewhere in the exhaust? | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | DotMatrix - 8/10/2012 4:10 PM I suppose the box where your exhaust is routed in will be open down towards the road and closed up towards the cabin so that it wont allow exhaust fumes to get into the car and will vent out heat? dont you need a flexi pipe somewhere in the exhaust? It will be sealed, but will fit louvers at the rear. Shouldn't need a flexi as it will have two slip joints in the system and the engine is solid mounted. | ||
DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | jasonr - 8/10/2012 11:25 PM DotMatrix - 8/10/2012 4:10 PM I suppose the box where your exhaust is routed in will be open down towards the road and closed up towards the cabin so that it wont allow exhaust fumes to get into the car and will vent out heat? dont you need a flexi pipe somewhere in the exhaust? It will be sealed, but will fit louvers at the rear. Shouldn't need a flexi as it will have two slip joints in the system and the engine is solid mounted. I'm just worried that it will be scorching hot in there. I was just thinking of my A-series ability to crack the bottom exhaust mount by engine movement when a flexi pipe is not fitted, but with the engine mounted solid I guess it should be ok. perhaps you should think about making small bracket to fix the exhaust to the gearbox or somewhere just to be sure that any possible movement results in bending the pipe on a straight part and not the point where it bolts to the engine. | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | That's the plan, there is an m6 thread in the top of the gearbox mount. going to make a bracket weld it to the manifold and bolt it up onto that. The rest of the system will hang on rubber mounts - should reduce the vibration and allow a bit of movement. | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Dropped the dry sump tank off today to get it shortened by 90mm, then it will sit in the boxed of area next to where the exhaust goes through behind the gearbox. | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Got the dry sump tank back from workshops yesterday, with 90mm reduction in height its spot on now. | ||
munday |
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Expert Posts: 5629 Location: Letchworth/Basildon | Why have I not been keeping up to date with this thread?! Love it | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | A few more little bits done the other weekend - away on a job at the mo, so haven't been able to do anything for nearly two weeks. Made up the extinguisher mount, finalised the gearstick position, and welded a small diameter tube to the top of the bottom half of the door. Next bit for the door is to weld a 25mm strip of steel along the top over the tube, so I have somewhere to fasten the ally panel that will cover the top of the section of the spaceframe out to the skin/shell. Also welded in the mounting bracket for the dry sump tank. Edited by jasonr 19/11/2012 9:41 PM | ||
munday |
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Expert Posts: 5629 Location: Letchworth/Basildon | Is that a RMD25 battery (or equivalent) you're using? | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | munday - 20/11/2012 8:09 AM Is that a RMD25 battery (or equivalent) you're using? It is indeed an rmd25 | ||
munday |
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Expert Posts: 5629 Location: Letchworth/Basildon | Got one on my GTI, seems to just about manage every time I go to start it, so should be ideal for your usage | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Well not done much with the crap weather and work commitments, but my sill stands arrived today. Was going to make some but at £40ish a pair, couldn't resist. Edited by jasonr 16/4/2013 8:32 PM | ||
DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | about time you updated this any progress during the winter? | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | DotMatrix - 16/4/2013 11:25 PM about time you updated this any progress during the winter? None unfortunately | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Found some motivation recently, probably because I'm not at work. I've done some work on the car. The car is now sat on sill stands, and after a lot of thinking I've worked out how to secure the front of the shell to the space frame and how to make the door hinge work. I have also finished fabrication on the drivers door and it is now rigid. Will get some more pictures taken today. | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | So the door hinge has been plaguing me for some time as to how to provide the pivot, I didn't think a bolt would be the best solution. The answer I have come up with is a piece of 10mm OD tube welded to the body work and then a 10mm hole drilled into the 'hinge'. A nice neat simple solution. The door, now it looks messy at the moment but once the I've been over it with the grinder it will be fine. It was difficult welding along such a length, with such thin steel. I have reinforced the door with an 8mm OD tube, I also welded along the outside of the door as well. Finished off tacking the rear frame to support the undertray/diffuser and braced it up to the roll cage and welded on the attachment tabs for the bodywork. Another thing that has been causing me some thought was how to do the bulkhead and allow the bodywork to attach to it as well, as it is also the firewall for the engine bay. I have now come up with the solution using steel, there is a 15 mm gap between the plating I have tacked on and the body work. This will allow to weld a panel to the bodywork that will over lap and allow the two to be riveted together once it is time to attach the bodywork. | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Forgot this pic of the front lower body fixing point. Couldn't do any more work - broke my welder ?? Edited by jasonr 6/1/2014 6:16 PM | ||
GreenGoblin |
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Fantastic build thread mate! as we would say over here in ireland, keep her lit bai! | |||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | Well my replacement torch for the welder is now fitted to the welder, just need to get some more gas now | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | My Wilwood calipers have arrived for the rear brakes today | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | My Wilwood calipers have arrived for the rear brakes today | ||
jasonr |
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Expert Posts: 2230 Location: Ripon, North Yorkshire | My Wilwood calipers have arrived for the rear brakes today | ||
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