My Danish '84 MetroDotMatrix |
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 Expert Posts: 4458    Location: Jelling, Denmark | Hello. I have been here for a while, and figured it was about time I created a journal  So here it is, and this is the status of the car so far: Model: Austin Metro 1275 HLE Year of make: 1984 Engine: Original 1275 A+ with 1.5/1 roller-valvelifters, carburettor trumpet, "sock" foam airfilter, other carburettor needle, leadfree valveseats, sports-manifold and other exhaust. quick-shift gear lever. Wheels: 6x13 SuperLight in dark metal grey Tires: Yokohama A539, in 175/50-13 Suspension: uprated front anti-rollbar, rear turbo anti-rollbar. 7mm shortened suspension trumpets fron, 6mm in the back, individualized suspension, rear suspension stiffening bar, GAZ adjustable shocks, green stuff brakepads, polybushes all way round, metro turbo front brake disk ventilation. Stereo: Pioner Cd radio with Purple Power amplifier, 2x 6x9" Sony X-Plod in back, and 2x 6.5" Sony X-Plod in the door pockets. Styling: MG Metro turbo wing extensions and front spoiler, Hella oval high beam lamps in the front bumper, original tailgate spoiler mounted, painted black, coloured wing mirrors. Interior: MG Metro seats, black fabric on the "parcel shelf" in the back, black vinyl on the door cards, black front and rear door pocket, black "parcel shelf" rests, black inner door handles and window winding knobs, Austin Metro S 3-spoke steering wheel, Austin Metro S rev counter. Edited by DotMatrix 6/10/2008 6:21 PM | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | And now a couple of pictures. Hope you like them. A buddy of mine who is good with photos helped me take them.        Edited by DotMatrix 6/10/2008 6:24 PM | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | A couple of picture more:     Edited by DotMatrix 6/10/2008 6:31 PM | ||
| JamieS |
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"MG Metro 1300"  Location: Warwickshire, UK | Thats a very nice example fella.. how a modified mk1 should look  Are they just mini fitment wheels or are they specifically metro offset? | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | JamieS - 6/10/2008 1:31 PM Thats a very nice example fella.. how a modified mk1 should look Are they just mini fitment wheels or are they specifically metro offset? Thanks Its one of those never ending projects it has been mine for 4-5 years now. Its normal 6x13" SuperLights as you buy for a mini. Some modification to the front wings necessary, other than that standard. | ||
| JamieS |
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| "MG Metro 1300" Location: Warwickshire, UK | |||
| Pandy |
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 Fish freak! MP Admin Posts: 14989 Location: Birmingham | Stunning! Wheels suit it down to the ground!  | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Pandy - 6/10/2008 1:38 PM Stunning! Wheels suit it down to the ground! thanks JamieS - 6/10/2008 1:35 PM Thats what I like to hear.. might go for some revolution rfx for mine and finding them in mini fitment is hard enough.. dont fancy trying it in metro fitment lol Are the door pockets mk1 and standard aswell? Thats the only thing I was worried about with the mk1 interior I have been looking on the rfx 5 spoke wheels as well, but went for these. But think the rfx's would also suit the car very well. yes. the door pockets are standard mk1. But the type with speakers in, and then painted black as everything else | ||
| vvc warrior |
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 Retired Admin Posts: 15557 Location: Co. Durham North East | stunning, looks really nice & sitting on them alloy wheels it looks very fat this has to be one of the best A-series about must say tho you defo need a new shiney exhaust as it's the only thing letting the car down. | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Man on a Mission - 6/10/2008 8:39 PM stunning, looks really nice & sitting on them alloy wheels it looks very fat this has to be one of the best A-series about must say tho you defo need a new shiney exhaust as it's the only thing letting the car down. thanks but yes. the exhaust looks a bit small and inadequate being that small, but I like it there in the middle, and if it gets much bigger it hits the ground but of course I could polish the sticking out of the rear. | ||
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 Expert Posts: 8490  Location: Midlands | That looks an awesome machine...would look better a tad lower but im guessing exhaust clearance would be an issue! | ||
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 drive it like its hired | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | AdrianSi - 7/10/2008 1:55 AM That looks an awesome machine...would look better a tad lower but im guessing exhaust clearance would be an issue! thanks exactly. its all ready a bit of a problem getting on the car lift back home, also the wings need a bit of work for the wheels to clear if it has to be lower so this is where it sits #petrol_head thanks. Edited by DotMatrix 7/10/2008 8:07 AM | ||
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| "MG Metro 1300" Location: Warwickshire, UK | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
| robster |
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| Expert Posts: 1466 Location: Aylesbury | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
| Metromartin |
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 MP Admin Posts: 17870 Location: Gloucester | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
| Metromartin |
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MP Admin Posts: 17870 Location: Gloucester | DotMatrix - 7/10/2008 9:08 PM Metromartin - 7/10/2008 11:04 AM I love those pictures and love your car, Do you want me to add it to the 1.3 gallery now you have some good pictures? yes. that would be great. I have postet a link and some text ind the "add my car please thread" Your mk1 Metro is now famous http://www.metropower.co.uk/portal/default.asp?id=258&mnu=258 | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Metromartin - 7/10/2008 11:46 AM Your mk1 Metro is now famous http://www.metropower.co.uk/portal/default.asp?id=258&mnu=258 thats great. thanks | ||
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| Expert Posts: 2004 Location: Chepstow | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
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| Expert Posts: 1466 Location: Aylesbury | Well done on the site pics. Hopefully mine will be alongside yours in the not too distant future | ||
| GTaJohn |
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 Regular Posts: 170 Location: North West | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | robster - 7/10/2008 8:52 PM Well done on the site pics. Hopefully mine will be alongside yours in the not too distant future Thanks. Im also quite happy being on the front page of metropower yes. you have good pictures I have seen, so just get it added GTaJohn - 9/10/2008 9:21 AM lovin your metro m8, there many metro in denmark? thanks no. not many at all. there are 4 including my own that I know about, so I would say somewhere between 4 and 10 mk 1 and 2's in total. and 1 mk3 GTI I know about, and 1 mk4 ascot. The ascot is here in Aarhus where I live. | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | to day I did a few things with the car, but only small maintenance jobs. Changed the oil and oil filter. I do that every 5000 km (I know it said 10000 km in the manual, but the old minis should have an oil change every 5000 km, so why shouldn't this engine be the same when they basically are the same) Besides with the way I drive, the magnetic thing on the oil drain plug looks like a complete hedgehog after 5000 km. When I already had the the bonnet up, I topped up the carburettor oil, and noticed that the clutch slave cylinder was leaking, so I took the slave cylinder out, honed it, changed the rubber stuff inside, and bleeded the system. So now it is as good as new again. nice (the only irritating thing about the leaking slave cylinder is that it spilled some clutch fluid on the subframe, and it isn't more than half a year ago I had that out for painting and restoration, and now the paint is gone where the fluid was spilled.) Then I also adjusted the rear brakes a little. might as well do it when I were on the lift. Two weekends ago I polished the car, so now that is also done before the winter. So now the only thing left to do before the car is prepared for the winter is to change the alloys to the steel wheels, and to give it a good thorough clean and a layer of wax underneath, and inside everything. Just thought I would keep you posted -me | ||
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| Expert Posts: 1466 Location: Aylesbury | Some more pics would be nice Why you changing the alloys over durign the winter? To look after them? | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | robster - 17/10/2008 11:44 PM Some more pics would be nice Why you changing the alloys over durign the winter? To look after them? yes. because the spray the roads with salt in Denmark when it freezes. and it just eats alloy wheels. So I have a set of steel rims with winter tires on for the winter | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Now I got the time to do a little rust prevention, so did that this weekend. cleaned all the usual places and sprayed it with wax underneath where it was needed, and put the thin wax inside the doors and every where that is hollow. still no mentionable rust in the bottom of the car, so that is nice. looks like it has a couple of years before I have to fix the rust spots. also changed to the winter wheels.    Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 12:27 PM | ||
| Metromartin |
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MP Admin Posts: 17870 Location: Gloucester | good idea for the rust prevention. Is it just me or has everyone got their own ramp? | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Metromartin - 9/11/2008 11:47 AM good idea for the rust prevention. Is it just me or has everyone got their own ramp? not my ramp. my dad's. he has a garage where he restores jaguars and other old english metal but wouldn't know how to live without a ramp | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | today I changes the two front winter tires because they were worn down, and I removed the mechanical fuel pump, blanked the hole in the cylinder block off, and installed an electric pump. I was getting tired of all the oil and gasoline that was always leaking out of the mechanical pump (even with a new one fitted), so bought a facet solid state pump, which seams to work fine. one thing which was real annoying about the stuff I did today was that I lost one of the bolts into the gasoline pump hole on the rear of the cylinder block, so I had to remove the lefthandside engine mount and the speedometer cable housing to get the bolt out, and then reassemble it all with new gaskets and everything maybe I will hold on to the bolt better next time then I have attached a couple of pictures.       Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 12:31 PM | ||
| JamieS |
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| "MG Metro 1300" Location: Warwickshire, UK | Have ya got some more pictures of that electronic fuel pump install and where you put the wiring to as im thinking of doing the same thing soon | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | JamieS - 16/11/2008 5:10 AM Have ya got some more pictures of that electronic fuel pump install and where you put the wiring to as im thinking of doing the same thing soon haven't got any pics of it right now, but the earth wire is mounted under the bolt on the corner of the clutch and brake plate as you can see from one of the pictures. the positive lead I have put in to the car along with all the other wires going in through the brake and clutch plate. inside the car I have soldered in to the most left fuse in the fuse box because it is turned on and off with the ignition, and the fuse is very large (rear window heater fuse) | ||
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| "MG Metro 1300" Location: Warwickshire, UK | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | funny problem tonight when driving to a mate. I have the minispares quickshift installed, and it broke just where the stick is attached to the ball which the gearstick turn over in the top of the gear selector housing. So took the thing apart where I had stopped while driving and found a long 1/2" socket extender in the boot and stuck it down in the hole, and away I went again looks like I will be welding a bit tomorrow here a few (although very bad) pictures. picture 1 shows where the gearstick broke off the ball in the top of the selector housing. picture 2 shows where the broken end of the gearstick. picture 3 shows the "new" gearstick.    Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 12:34 PM | ||
| Metromartin |
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MP Admin Posts: 17870 Location: Gloucester | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Metromartin - 7/12/2008 11:06 AM Ouch, how can you snap a gearstick!? beats me bad quality perhaps. the quickshift isn't the KAD one. its minispares own making. but it did snap in the weakest spot, right where it is welded to the "ball". | ||
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| "MG Metro 1300" Location: Warwickshire, UK | Hi Martin.. have you got any pictures of your front speaker and stereo setup? Looking for ideas of how to mount mine Cheers Jamie | ||
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MP Admin Posts: 17870 Location: Gloucester | JamieS - 13/12/2008 2:45 AM Hi Martin.. have you got any pictures of your front speaker and stereo setup? Looking for ideas of how to mount mine Cheers Jamie I got a universal DIN fit holder and fit it under the heater. Best bit on the A-series mk1 and mk2 are the front speakers are 10cm so any 10cm speaker just screws into the 4 screws already and have the same spade connectors. If you want a 3rd front speaker you can fit one behind the grill above the ash tray on the dash!!  | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | JamieS - 12/12/2008 4:45 PM Hi Martin.. have you got any pictures of your front speaker and stereo setup? Looking for ideas of how to mount mine Cheers Jamie Hey. You asked about the stereo in my car. I have found a couple of pics of it. the only thing not shown in the pics is the amplifier installation in the boot. The amp drives the two 6x9" speakers in the back. radio:  back speakers:  front speakers: (the plastic bits on this door that looks a bit dreary has been painted black since, and so has all the other stuff that had lost a bit of paint since the restoration 4-5 years ago)  I have found many different radio mounting plastic things in different metro's, they are all mounted underneath the heater, but they all look pretty universal. the one im using is quite thin, and matches the plastic on the dash quite well I think. | ||
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| "MG Metro 1300" Location: Warwickshire, UK | Cheers fella.. I considered going down the standard mk1 door pocket route but really as im really into my audio im looking for bigger than 10cm so gonna try mk3 door pockets as they are 13cm.. and luckily for me we sell universal din stereo holders in halfords where i work Looks tidy how youve got that setup | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Found some pictures of the last time I renovated the brakes in front on the car. I know its a while ago, but I thought it might interest some one Old disk: (definitely used up)  Old caliper: (not leaky, but quite stuck in the ventilation screws)  Renovated old caliper: (sandblasted, galvanized, new ventilation screws, new pistons and seals)  New brake disk fitted: (mini brake disk. fitted with spacer made on a turn lathe between the hub and disk to fit)  Finished: (looks good until the first salt is sprayed on the roads )  | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | JamieS - 18/12/2008 1:39 PM Cheers fella.. I considered going down the standard mk1 door pocket route but really as im really into my audio im looking for bigger than 10cm so gonna try mk3 door pockets as they are 13cm.. and luckily for me we sell universal din stereo holders in halfords where i work Looks tidy how youve got that setup Its supposed to look as standard as possible, so thanks but yes. the speakers in the door pockets really cant be heard over the exhaust and the rear speakers. But the rear speakers makes quite a lot of sound when an amp is fitted, and the plastic hat-tray where they are mounted is very solid (unlike some other cars you see like eg. escorts where they hang a lot | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | I know its not new pictures, but found some pictures from when I renovated the engine, and thought that some might find it interesting. Sorry about the quality. Old cylinder head found for renovation:  Cleaned and painted the block:  Honing the cylinders:  Inside the block:  Pistons reused, cleaned and new piston rings and bearings fitted:  Crankshaft has been machined to oversize 20:  getting ready to fit the pistons to the block:  Pistons and crank fitted:  Stuff to be mounted to the outside sandblasted and ready for different kinds of galvanization:  Gearbox and dropgears on:  Camshaft, timing chain and tensioner also on:  All that is left is the cylinder head now:  Everything fitted, and now ready to put into the car:  | ||
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 One wheeled mad man! Posts: 3224 Location: Luton! | Wow, great skills mate Im going to be stripping down my turbo engine soon and pictures like this are very useful. Edd | ||
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| "MG Metro 1300" Location: Warwickshire, UK | Good job | ||
| Metromartin |
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MP Admin Posts: 17870 Location: Gloucester | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | I got a new exhaust for christmas so here is a few pictures of it fitted. The exhaust is the Maniflow one box system for the metro, and I quite like the sound of it, although its a lot quieter than the centre exhaust sadly the stiffening bar I made for the rear suspension doesn't fit over this exhaust, but I will just make a new one.     Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 12:36 PM | ||
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| "MG Metro 1300" Location: Warwickshire, UK | Damn you and your shiny new maniflow  Wish I wasnt so cheap otherwise id shell out for one  | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | JamieS - 31/12/2008 4:58 AM Damn you and your shiny new maniflow Wish I wasnt so cheap otherwise id shell out for one havn't figured out why its green though | ||
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 Regular Posts: 164 | DotMatrix - 31/12/2008 5:22 PM JamieS - 31/12/2008 4:58 AM Damn you and your shiny new maniflow Wish I wasnt so cheap otherwise id shell out for one havn't figured out why its green though Probably was made in NL | ||
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| "MG Metro 1300" Location: Warwickshire, UK | lmao think its just maniflows colour.. my old maniflow was green aswell | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | The battery gave up the ghost. only held enough power to crank it about 20 seconds, so did a bit of car-pushing a couple of days. bought a new battery, so now it working great again, starts very well apart from the starter solenoid now acting up. so I'm going to change that as well. the white spots all around the engine bay is salt spray from the roads.  Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 12:42 PM | ||
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| "MG Metro 1300" Location: Warwickshire, UK | Try taking the cables off the solanoid and cleaning them up with sandpaper.. salt might have deteriorated it if that works cake the contacts in terminal protector or vacalene Edit: Is that copper grease I can see on it? That would protect it but as far as I know its also conductive  Edited by JamieS 23/2/2009 3:08 PM | ||
| Metromartin |
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MP Admin Posts: 17870 Location: Gloucester | JamieS - 23/2/2009 8:07 PM Try taking the cables off the solanoid and cleaning them up with sandpaper.. salt might have deteriorated it if that works cake the contacts in terminal protector or vacalene Edit: Is that copper grease I can see on it? That would protect it but as far as I know its also conductive Good advice, I think I had to do that to my mk1 at one stage. I think I got a new one of ebay for a couple of quid. | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | JamieS - 23/2/2009 10:07 AM Try taking the cables off the solanoid and cleaning them up with sandpaper.. salt might have deteriorated it if that works cake the contacts in terminal protector or vacalene Edit: Is that copper grease I can see on it? That would protect it but as far as I know its also conductive yes. that is copper grease which I applied just because of this problem, quite conductive, but never the less, it didn't solve the problem. I think the only way out is a new solenoid. | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Metromartin - 23/2/2009 10:28 AM JamieS - 23/2/2009 8:07 PM Try taking the cables off the solanoid and cleaning them up with sandpaper.. salt might have deteriorated it if that works cake the contacts in terminal protector or vacalene Edit: Is that copper grease I can see on it? That would protect it but as far as I know its also conductive Good advice, I think I had to do that to my mk1 at one stage. I think I got a new one of ebay for a couple of quid. I allready have a new mini one in a cardboard box on a shelf, so just have to change it when I get around to it | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | changed the start solenoid. think its off a early mini. looks like it with the connectors and all, but works great.  Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 12:43 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | I have bought a few things to get a few more horsepower out of the A series. My plans are to fit these things to the 1275 currently in my car together with the 1.5 roller rockers I am currently driving with. the cylinderhead has been ported and so on by me. the things in the pictures are: 4x 36mm rimflow inlet valves 4x 29mm rimflow exhaust valves double valve springs new valve guides maniflow tubular manifold kent 296 scatter cam double cam chain              Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 12:50 PM | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | you may notice that the inlet and exhaust ports are not totally smooth, which I know. I have just been trying to remove as much material in there as possible, not to make them as smooth as possible. the combustion chambers I have been trying to make smooth, with partial succes, but at some point you have to stop sanding As soon as I get the time to deliver the cylinderhead, its going a shop to get machined down 1 mm, and to get the valves inserted together with lead free seats. | ||
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| "MG Metro 1300" Location: Warwickshire, UK | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | So I had a very busy weekend working on the car non stop. I have taken a few pictures which you can see here. the pictures shows the installation of the stuff I bought for the engine. - friday I took the engine out. - saturday I took the engine apart put the new camshaft in, checked for valve clearance, took the new cylinder head off again, and fitted springs and fitted the belt verier adjustable belt drive I found in the garage. The reason for not using the double chain I bought was that I didn't have the right cam offset key, and wanted to adjust the cam correct. - sunday I fitted the new cylinderhead and adjusted the valves, fitted distributor, starter, put the engine back in, gear linkage and fitted inlet and exhaust manifold. So all thats left now is to put some water and oil in, connect the exhaust, tune in ignition and air/fuel mixture and then go for a drive I really cant wait to fire it up!      Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 1:55 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | here is a couple of pictures of the new engine with dual HIF's in the engine bay.       Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 1:59 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
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| "MG Metro 1300" Location: Warwickshire, UK | Dunno if youve started that engine yet but I bet it does or will sound sweet | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | JamieS - 13/8/2009 7:21 AM Dunno if youve started that engine yet but I bet it does or will sound sweet dont worry. I have had it started and it does sound well, revs really good after fitting dual carbs, and you can easily hear the carbs inside the car Im going to go work on it again this weekend. cant wait to drive it again, and get it rolled | ||
| Metromartin |
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MP Admin Posts: 17870 Location: Gloucester | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Metromartin - 13/8/2009 9:57 AM nice engine bay, the twin carbs look ace!! thanks. im also quite pleased with it. spent a bit of time sanding and polishing the carburator bells on the polishing machine | ||
| vvc warrior |
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Retired Admin Posts: 15557 Location: Co. Durham North East | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | slight problem friday driving home friday. lucky for me I was almost home. what sort of sound do you think this made?   Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 2:11 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | also. fitted rollcage today, looks nice    Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 2:13 PM | ||
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 Elf eating dog breeder Posts: 10531 Location: Guildford | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | FreddieS - 2/11/2009 10:21 AM Glad it got to you safely, looks really good in the car! What roller rockers were they? really want to avoid them! yes. thanks for wrapping it propperly and posting it. well happy with the buy minispares C-AHT446A roller tip. not super pleased with them my self, but luckily it looks like nothing else got broken. right now thinking of whether or not to go back to standard iron rockers, or to buy a replacement rocker arm. | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | a few pictures of last weekends work on the car. took the engine out to check if I had a valve which was leaking and to measure where the camshaft was timed at because I had a problem with getting power in the high revs and getting it to rev past 5500 rpm. when the engine was out and I took the cylinder head off I found that the head gasket had gone between cylinders 2 and 3, water from one of the water passages was also leaking into the cylinder, and that the cam had shifted a tooth on the cam chain because the tensioner was broken and had fallen off despite being brand new. changed the head gasket and cam tensioner, timed the cam correctly, and put the engine back in the car. when first started a clear difference could be heard and felt, so a good weekends work    Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 2:16 PM | ||
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Elf eating dog breeder Posts: 10531 Location: Guildford | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | FreddieS - 29/11/2009 11:33 AM Ouch! Any good pics of the enginebay now? Really like what youve done with this car, shame half the pics in this thread are dead! I will take some pics next weekend, didn't get pics of this weekends work, but will remember to take some of the engine bay next weekend yes. its annoying with the pictures. I don't know what have happened with the pictures, they can still be opened, but aren't shown in the thread. | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | updated the attachements which had gone dead, so now all pics are working again | ||
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| "MG Metro 1300" Location: Warwickshire, UK | Dont seem to be having much luck with this atm.. still looking good | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | took a couple of pictures this weekend. didn't get any work done though. just went for a drive in it these pictures are of the inside of the car. nice clean floors with out holes glad to see that being it has been some years since it was welded. did sand and paint it thought. moved the battery to the spare wheel well. used the cables from previously used to power the amplifier to connect it up. still a bit work to do tidying up the wires though.     Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 2:18 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | also took a couple of pictures of the engine bay. the place the battery used to be, the bracket I made for the start solenoid, new trumpets for the carbs and the braking system all connected up. need to reposition the fuel pump though, right now its just wedged in where it fit with the battery out, theres real easy access to the clutch now sorry about the mess in the engine bay. the car is quite dirty         Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 2:21 PM | ||
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 Admin Posts: 1576 Location: Burnley, Lancs | I'm liking the twin HIF's! those are quite hard to find for A-series engines! i think you have to get em from a bigger car and shorten the linkages............... My old mini popped it head gasket there, cause a total loss of power and made it completely undriveable | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Pietaster - 4/1/2010 1:00 PM I'm liking the twin HIF's! those are quite hard to find for A-series engines! i think you have to get em from a bigger car and shorten the linkages............... My old mini popped it head gasket there, cause a total loss of power and made it completely undriveable I made the twin HIF's from two single HIF's and the linkage from a series 2 xj6 shortened, and a manifold for twin hs4 carbs which I bored out to the bigger size carbs. yes. I think its quite a common place to blow the head gasket for the A series engine. am also stocking a few headgaskets and manifold gasktes now | ||
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Elf eating dog breeder Posts: 10531 Location: Guildford | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | did a bit of work on the A series this weekend. fitted my brake servo number two which meant cutting into the heater motor because it was the only place I could find room for the brake servo. the room where the battery used to be is to be used for an oil-catch tank, so that was why I didn't just put the servo there. MOT comming up soon (a week ago actually, but have booked a time friday 12 days, so that will be extremely exciting to see how that will go!     Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 2:24 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | finished a few minor things on the metro this weekend. here is a few pics of the car now       Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 2:29 PM | ||
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MP Admin Posts: 17870 Location: Gloucester | |||
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Admin Posts: 1576 Location: Burnley, Lancs | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Metromartin - 14/3/2010 10:08 AM Thats an impressive mk1!! Whats the coke bottle for? thank you the coke is oil pickup. temporary solution until I make a bracket to hold a bigger bottle. | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Pietaster - 14/3/2010 10:27 AM Looks like a breather tank, or a collector for the float bowl overflow? I really like what you've done with the carb's. The left hand HIF's are quite rare so duelling them up is an easier option. I've wondered weather i could do this this with K-series carbs in the future as i have a second one which i keep as a spare. Is that two brake servo's i spy? thank its oil breather thing yes. but as above, temporary. need to fit a 2 liter bottle when I make up a bracket. the HIF's are just two identical HIF's from two metro's and linkage addapted from a series 2 xj6. works great. yes its two brake servo's. one for each brake circuit. doesn't make bleeding the brakes any easier | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | had the car on a rolling road in the weekend. the bhp was what I expected. I want it to make more power, want at least 10 more bhp out of it, so will have to figure out how torque is quite good though. well happy with that not to happy with that massive bump in the curves... cant figure out what is causing that, but want it gone. The three runs is with different mixture settings.   Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 2:34 PM | ||
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Admin Posts: 1576 Location: Burnley, Lancs | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Pietaster - 12/4/2010 10:06 AM Won't that be the needle profile causing the bump? perhaps. im not exactly an su specialist but I think the first thing I will try to change is the damper springs. have tried several different needles, and this one seems the best. | ||
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Elf eating dog breeder Posts: 10531 Location: Guildford | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | a small update about what I have been up to this weekend at the last hill climb event I was told that my car needed a new fire-extinguisher as the old one was to old, a box for the battery so I wouldn't get acid on me when I had and accident with the battery inside the car and to get some door cards on the doors because they had sharp edges... so I fitted the battery box which has a alloy plate in the bottom which serves the purpose to hold the battery box down and hold the battery, and I bought a new fire-extinguisher (cheap crap - £20). the door cards are made out of thin black cardboard which has texture on it the lightest thing I could think of was card board first I tried to put the door cards on with double sided tape, but that didn't stick as the cardboard wasn't straight, so ended up glueing them on with that sort of black extremely strong window-sealant. and lastly the brake servo for the front wheels only had a very sharp bend in the pipe where it exits the servo and I suspected this was the cause of my 50/50 brake distribution, so fixed that. haven't tried it yet though.        Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 2:38 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | so I was at my 3'rd hill climb this weekend. Saturday was test day at a track without anybody keeping time or anything. there I managed to get the car running as good as ever until I snapped the clutch pipe. So went home and fixed that Saturday. Sunday was the actual race, which was 1 drive through short because of a record high number of attendants (104 cars). the reason for the many cars is that this is THE hill climb in Denmark. my first time were quite good. the second time up the hill I were millimetres from hitting a bale of straw, so that time were quite poor. and my two last runs were somewhere in between because I could feel that something were wrong with the car. the engine was jumping under hard acceleration and engine braking. later discovered this was due to having snapped a engine mount on the front right hand side of the engine. while avoiding hitting the straw-bale, I bumped out over the edge of the road with a little bit of damage to the rim (only cosmetic) from the gravel out there, and to the rears arch. and then the third run up the hill the car was boiling due to the fan not being able to turn round because the snapped engine mount allowed the engine to give it a knock. so all in all a mixed weekend resulting and a bit of work to do, but luckily nothing seriously broken      Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 2:40 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | fixed the rear arch, fan and engine mount today. here are some pictures of the arch work (the color isn't perfect, but its good enough), the old engine mount (just put in an old used one. will probably make a mini-style stabilizing bar sometime) and the rim touched up a bit, you can still see the stone chips, but its better.         Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 2:45 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | those clamps on the front antiroll bar is very annoying. almost impossible to get off due to corrosion and then when you put them on again and try to tighten them they almost always snap. so made a new clamp part as I broke two today...    Edited by DotMatrix 27/12/2011 2:56 PM | ||
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| Expert Posts: 9862 Location: Cornwall | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | ralphh85 - 23/8/2010 5:33 PM nice bit of raw engineering!! Ralph raw it certainly is, but it works | ||
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| Expert Posts: 9862 Location: Cornwall | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
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| Expert Posts: 9862 Location: Cornwall | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | took the engine out this weekend. I am going to take it apart and give it new bearings, piston rings, possibly bore it to an oversize and get new pistons. generally renovate it a bit. try to get it to use a little less oil. (currently uses about 1.5 liters on 300 km of driving and 30 km of race)    Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 10:17 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | spent some time this weekend taking the engine apart to find out what was in need of replacement. here are some pictures of bearings and oil pump which is all to be replaced. also timed the cam up to find out that it was time in at 103.75 degrees, so I'm going to buy an other key to move it to 107.75 degrees, where hopefully it will be a bit better and less lumpy. luckily the crank, liners and pistons was fine, so think I might reuse those. need to get new piston rings though. also found out that there was no thread left in the block where the cam chain tensioner sits, so that needs to be fixed funny how that oil pump and those bearings were changed exactly a year ago         Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 10:20 PM | ||
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 New user Posts: 11 Location: Lisboa, Portugal | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
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| Regular Posts: 138 Location: Durham, North east. | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | the parts have now arrived. so now the fitting and assembling of the engine can begin Here is a few pictures of the stuff I bought. Also bought some fabric to heat-wrap the exhaust manifold and two white plastic sheets to use as number backgrounds to stick on the doors so that the lacquer wont get ripped off more than it is all ready.             Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 10:26 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | I was given a Cobra seat for christmas, and had previously made the mounting brackets to mount it in the original position, so cleaned the sound insulation off today, touched up the primer underneath the seat and mounted the seat. will be much nicer to sit in when racing than the original seat, also sits a lot lower which will hopefully clear my head from touching the roof when wearing a helmet also fitted aero-catches a couple of weeks ago so thought I would post pics of that.         Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 10:31 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | fitted new piston-rings and bearings today and assembled the block with the crank     Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 10:33 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | found a cross pin diff I decided to use instead of the one I used before   Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 10:35 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | finished assembling the engine this weekend. so next weekend it goes in the car again cant wait to drive it. touched up a few things with new paint so the engine looks sparkling again changes the 2'nd gear synchro, fitted central oil pickup pipe, magnetic trap on the back, long magnetic sump plug, changed the offset key for the cam so it is now timed in at 108 degrees (was 104), fitted the crosspin diff and shimmed it up, and shimmed the idler gear up, also decided to fit my 1.5 roller tip rockers again and try my luck with these again.       Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 10:38 PM | ||
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e7c5.jpg?memberid=2120&type=profile) Williams R100 Posts: 1809 Location: Chard, Somerset | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | done some good work this weekend. heat wrapped the exhaust, put the engine in and put a number background on one of the doors (was to cold to put it on really, so I will wait with the other). the engine fired up nicely, but is in serious need of a tune up, so I am going to try and book a time with a guy that knows what he is doing with SU carbs etc, so hopefully he will be able to make it run perfectly and remove my flat spot between 3000-4000 rpm in time for the first hill climb the 7'th of may     Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 10:40 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | got some more things done in the last weekend. fitted a silencer more on the exhaust to get the noise down a bit, and maybe not have to drive with ear plugs, found out that my quickshift had broken in to two (again) so soldered that back together with bras (don't know what that sort of thing is called in English), and then I fitted new ventilated discs and new pads up front.    Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 10:44 PM | ||
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 Posts: 2794 Location: Tamworth/Measham | This looks ace,really like this Metro Some good work mate | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Turley_vvc - 28/4/2011 10:23 AM This looks ace,really like this Metro Some good work mate thanks a lot of exciting and frustrating hours gone into it. Your build isnt bad either absolutely love the look of your engine. When will it be in the car? I want to see pics | ||
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Posts: 2794 Location: Tamworth/Measham | DotMatrix - 28/4/2011 12:04 PM Turley_vvc - 28/4/2011 10:23 AM This looks ace,really like this Metro Some good work mate thanks a lot of exciting and frustrating hours gone into it. Your build isnt bad either absolutely love the look of your engine. When will it be in the car? I want to see picsNot just yet mate still needs some more Tuning done Dont worry there will be pictures mate LOTS | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Turley_vvc - 28/4/2011 9:13 PM DotMatrix - 28/4/2011 12:04 PM Turley_vvc - 28/4/2011 10:23 AM This looks ace,really like this Metro Some good work mate thanks a lot of exciting and frustrating hours gone into it. Your build isnt bad either absolutely love the look of your engine. When will it be in the car? I want to see picsNot just yet mate still needs some more Tuning done Dont worry there will be pictures mate LOTS could guess the part about the tuning when reading about your solid cam conversion good. Looking forward to seing them | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | had my car rolling roaded today, and I am quite pleased with the result the guy said that I should get 10 more hp if I changed to a weber carb because he had much more adjustment possibilities with those, and also that I should move my fuel pressure regulator/filter forward out by the grille to keep the petrol cool, and that I should get a more straight curve with power in a wider spectrum by changing to a dizzy that suits the cam, so I just might do those things next winter other than that, I changed the clutch slave cylinder to a reconditioned one I had because the other one was leaking, adjusted the valves, washed the car and other minor things so that I am now completely ready for the race this Saturday cant wait  Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 10:23 PM | ||
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| Veteran Posts: 415 Location: abroad....good ole germany | |||
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Posts: 2794 Location: Tamworth/Measham | Mint i forgot you had this mate,nice result tbh and cant complain that you could get an extra 10bhp out of a mint result already | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | mookie - 4/5/2011 9:48 PM Is this 90 at the wheels? Very nice car btw! thanks no, at the crank | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Turley_vvc - 4/5/2011 10:28 PM Mint i forgot you had this mate,nice result tbh and cant complain that you could get an extra 10bhp out of a mint result already thanks. I am also quite pleased with the result. Does sound quite good at high rpm, also the diff i put in this winter has a nice whine to it but i think i will leave the engine alone until next winter and use the racer during the summer to deside what to change next winter | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | just wanted to show you an action shot from the recent hill climb. check the fluffy dice for indication of cornering speed wasn't looking at the speedo, but would guess this corner to be around 60mph judging from rpm and gear.  Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 10:46 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | made a bracket to hold the engine steady bar today. hopefully this will fix the problem with the exhaust coming loose in the joins.       Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 10:56 PM | ||
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Posts: 2794 Location: Tamworth/Measham | nice bit of work there mate | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Dammit! On my way to hill climb today, the water pump let go letting out all the water which made at least one valve stick, which punched a hole in the top of at least one piston, and all quicker than i could tell that anything was wrong while driving. Happened within 2 minutes tops so no racing for me this weekend, but now i have to figure out how to get the car back so i can take the engine out and fix it. Expensive hobby! | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | collected the car with trailer friday, and took the cylinder head off, engine out, took the engine apart and took the damaged piston out. now I need to order parts to fix the car and put the engine in before the 2'nd so that I am ready for the next race. expensive lesson learned      Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 10:58 PM | ||
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 Expert Posts: 2812 Location: Bournemouth | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | assembled the engine, put it in and fired it up today and yesterday. luckily it all worked as it should. so now the car is all ready for the race next saturday. the cylinder head have had 8 new valves, 8 new bronze guides, 8 new seats and a skim... so quite an expensive breakdown this. also changed a piston and some piston rings.           Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 11:03 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | I were out racing Saturday the 2'nd of July, and here are a couple of pictures of me, my car and the other cars a fun and very wet day!      Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 11:07 PM | ||
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| Veteran Posts: 415 Location: abroad....good ole germany | |||
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Expert Posts: 2812 Location: Bournemouth | |||
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| Veteran Posts: 415 Location: abroad....good ole germany | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | mookie - 13/7/2011 9:30 PM very nice pics again. I've planned to do a hillclimb in my Metro next year. Hopefully everything works out as planned I think you should try hill climbing. in denmark at least its the cheapest form of motorsport, and allowes you to talk about cars for a whole day with like-minded people djwilma - 13/7/2011 10:43 PM i always wanted a rally manta, and even the volvo 240 looks good Hows the car running now ? that car used to be a 242 turbo volvo which the guy rolled out into the forest last year, and has now been re-shelled as a 244 turbo, that volvo is just as fast as that manta 400, which is by the way a real manta 400 only not build to group b spec (because it is not allowed within FIA as they are still banned, but build to group 4 spec I believe, but it is also extremely fast, exactly the same times as the volvo up the hill. The car is running fine, maybe a tiny bit better than prior to my latest engine mishap. but I am still going to get it adjusted again by a new SU expert I have found in denmark (the only one in denmark that is able to make special needles I have been told) just need to find a bit more money before doing so but next winter the engine is going out again, I want it to make more power mookie - 13/7/2011 10:51 PM those sporting Manta's and Ascona's are very expensive over here in germany yes. its the only one I have ever seen in denmark, and the ones I can find for sale on mobile.de are very expensive yes, but then again they are comparable to metro 6r4's edit: oh yes, and I broke my stupid quickshift gearstick for the third time now in the same place and missed a training run because of it, so I have to weld that one up again before the next race. luckily it wasn't to far from home this race, so my father came out with a standard one which I quickly switched to. Edited by DotMatrix 13/7/2011 2:36 PM | ||
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Posts: 2794 Location: Tamworth/Measham | Car looks awesome mate | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Turley_vvc - 13/7/2011 11:29 PM Car looks awesome mate thanks just washed and dried it with a washing cloth the day before, took care to make it cleaner than I usually do before racing, and then it rained | ||
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| Veteran Posts: 415 Location: abroad....good ole germany | DotMatrix - 13/7/2011 11:27 PM I think you should try hill climbing. in denmark at least its the cheapest form of motorsport, and allowes you to talk about cars for a whole day with like-minded people oh I already did a couple of hillclimbs in my Triumph TR6 and my ex BMW 2002tii. Just haven't competed in the last years and the Metro would make an ideal car as the basic shell is quite cheap to get if I crash it btw I wouldn't really compare a Manta 400 to a 6R4 as the Manta was way more common and more of a regular road car than the 6R4. The Manta just got rare because of it being a boy racers car in the 80s early 90s that nobody wanted to be seen dead in. There were endless Manta jokes and even 2 movies which made fun of that car. I had one sometime in the mid 90s which I bought for roughly 40GBP as nobody wanted it and the car was in really good nick, completely original with current mot and no necessary repairs at all, though not a 400 but a 2.0 GT | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | did a bit of work this weekend as I am going racing next weekend, so thought I would repair my broken gearstick (again) and make solid mounts for the rear subframe. all went well (apart from quite a big oil leak I found from one of the gaskets round a drive shaft, but that is to be fixed another weekend )       Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 11:10 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | was out racing this weekend, and my girlfriend took some pictures of me and then I have also attached a couple of pictures of other cars. it was an extremely wet day Sunday. we raced both Saturday and Sunday, Saturday was fun, but only for fun and time was not measured, drove 3x3 laps before something dislocated it self inside the gearbox which did that I could only select 2'nd and neutral which was not optimal, but managed to fix it so I could drive home. in the evening at home I emptied the engine for oil and removed unwanted stuff (a small metal pin from the rocker shaft). Sunday was also a fund day, started with dry weather for the first heat then rained the rest of the day. The first time I threw the clutch at the lights to start up the hill my clutch went, so for the remainder of the day I could only like half disengage the gear, which gave me some quite poor time up the hill. Then later my water-pump gasket popped out giving me a kind of fountain inside the engine bay, but managed to fix that by making a gasket out of duct-tape and liquid gasket that lasted the rest of the day. so all in all a busy weekend. haven't managed to fix my clutch yet, but I suspect that the centre bolt in the clutch and/or the locking shim behind the bolt has dislocated it self, but I will fix it next weekend so that the car can be ready for racing again in 14 days. many joys with old cars               Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 11:14 PM | ||
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| Expert Posts: 2004 Location: Chepstow | |||
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 Regular Posts: 127 Location: West Wales | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Thanks to both of you | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Thanks to both of you | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | have been working this weekend on fixing my clutch. I was unable to disengage the clutch last weekend while racing and the next racing event is next weekend, so am in a bit of a hurry to get it fixed. tried all sorts of things, removing the small rund thing that makes it easier to smoothly engage the clutch, adjusted the clutch stop bolt on the end of the cover, moved the leaver with a metal rod to see if the master cylinder wasn't giving it enough travel. measured everything up and nothing was out of place or had moved. nothing worked. So today I removed the cover again and pulled the clutch off. why is it that every time I try to pull that clutch off I end up spending several hours trying to make it let go of my crankshaft. its like its welded on. usually I end up pulling the thread out of the clutch cover together with the three holding bolts or pulling the thread off one of the three bolts, and then I have to cut new thread into the cover and find a bolt that fits and all that. ended up with M10 thread in all three bolts today. damn clutch. but it seems like my clutch plate is slightly distorted (shaped a bit like a bowl, and that of course is wrong. the clutch is nearly two years old (this Christmas) which is about 10 races and driving back and forth to these. The clutch material was wearing thin also, so I ordered a new AP racing clutch plate with express delivery. hopefully it will arrive before Friday so I have time to fit it before racing Saturday. my old clutch was of the minispares racing type with four paddles.  Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 11:16 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | also drilled a round hole in the right hand side inner wing in order to be able to get air powered tools to work the end of the clutch cover bolt and clutch removal tool bolt. looks almost standard will post more pictures next weekend when I fit the clutch again. | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | picture of the hole I drilled in the inner wing for working on the clutch and on my new clutch plate. When I first assembled the clutch again with the new clutch plate and tried the car, it still didn't work, so went in again and took the clutch out again (friday night) it turned out that when depressed the diaphragm did not let go of the clutch all the way round, but only 2/3's of the way, so changed that also (fortunately had a spare AP diaphragm in the spare-parts-pile no measurable or visible differences between the two but one worked and the other didn't. so finished that friday which was fortunate because I was to race saturday    Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 11:19 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | here is a few pictures from the race this weekend. great day. fun track. in the middle of a town, right by city hall                      Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 11:22 PM | ||
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| Veteran Posts: 415 Location: abroad....good ole germany | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | mookie - 28/8/2011 3:03 PM nice pics as usual, I like the Dolomite, do you know if it was a Sprint Did you do any good in the race? its a sprint yes, and its is really cool and very quick. I think it went really well, I'm happy with my own driving, cant see that I could have done it much quicker without either more power or more grip, felt like I was close to the limit in every single corner. result was: 14'th of 34 in the training and 19'th out of 33 total in the race. and because I am the only person in my group (above 10kg pr. hp) I am always put together with the group from 6 to 10 kg pr. hp, which makes it hard to get at good position in total I was about 6.5 secs behind the next last car which is the grey uno in the picture. it has 130hp and weights about the same as my car, so all in all it was a great day and I think I did good | ||
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Regular Posts: 234 Location: Leicester | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | look what I bought! newly painted and everything it will be a while before they are fitted though. the plans are to fit them with a048 yoko's, fit a set of cross-spokes I have with a539's and then use them for racing as dry and wet weather wheels.   Edited by DotMatrix 28/1/2012 11:24 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
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MP Admin Posts: 17870 Location: Gloucester | |||
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 The TV star Metro GTa 1.1i Posts: 1061 Location: Early, Reading. | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Metromartin - 17/12/2011 6:51 PM can't wait to see it on those ronals! me neither but just have to save up ~£400 for a set of A048-R first what about compound? I'm thinking soft rather than medium. Roger Red Hat - 17/12/2011 7:21 PM my god this is such a epic metro! thanks mate | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | The racer has its MOT comming up, so have been doing a bit of rust work on the car in my day off tuesday and will continue next weekend. Its a hard place to cut out material between the strengthening inside the rear arch and the strengthening bellow the boot floor, but I think it worked out ok       Edited by DotMatrix 7/4/2012 11:23 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | finished the rust work this weekend! ended up looking quite good I think. no more rust work this year hopefully        Edited by DotMatrix 7/4/2012 11:22 PM | ||
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| Elite Veteran Posts: 931 Location: west bromwich, birmingham | |||
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Admin Posts: 1576 Location: Burnley, Lancs | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | alexwuk - 5/3/2012 10:07 PM top job mate, looks good. got to do mine before i send it to paint, need to get motivated Alex Pietaster - 5/3/2012 11:27 PM Great work mate, this is easily one of my favourite A-series tro's on the site. thanks you two | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | removed all the sound deadening under the rear seat and removed the rear seat brackets and painted it all blue, not the best of paint jobs but makes it look a bit nicer  Edited by DotMatrix 7/4/2012 11:24 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | had the car out racing for the first time this year yesterday and that was a very wet experience. spun the car in the puddles of standing water, but luckily didn't hit anything a thing that did break though was the water pump to alternator ear (again) damn crap water-pump! fun day though without any major results other than finding out that the rear end of a metro will let go at some point and that at high speed you cannot catch it again (i couldn't anyway ) fun day non the less            | ||
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Admin Posts: 1576 Location: Burnley, Lancs | |||
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Pietaster - 8/4/2012 12:01 AM Nice action shots! whats happened to the alternator fan? broke the bracket you see covered in wire and tape and the lower tightning bracket and the fan hit the waterpump puley. wasn't a nice noise | ||
| Roger Red Hat |
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The TV star Metro GTa 1.1i Posts: 1061 Location: Early, Reading. | i recognise that fella! top work! | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | a couple of weekends ago I was out racing at a hill climb that actually have a hill, which gave me the thought that I needed a lower gearing in my car as I never have had any use of 4'th gear while racing. So I bought a second hand 4.133:1 crownwheel and pinion out of an allegro 1100. previously I used a 3.76:1 gearing from a 998 mini. other than changing the gearing the engine had a sound that wasn't supposed to be there at the last race, so wanted to fix it. see if you can spot what made the unpleasant other than that the valve cap was cracked (but unfortunately these are crappy picture from the phone). lastly I found two small pieces of metal in the bottom of the gearbox which I suspect is from the piston I broke last time. only shows how well you have to flush the gearbox when that sort of thing happen. I will put the diff in and the engine back in next weekend, and hopefully it all works for tuesdays race (national holiday in denmark). tight schedule  (Billede0288_resized.jpg)  (Billede0293_resized.jpg)  (Billede0294_resized.jpg)  (Billede0296_resized.jpg)  (Billede0298_resized.jpg)  (Billede0306_resized.jpg)  (Billede0307_resized.jpg) Attachments ----------------  Billede0288_resized.jpg (60KB - 92 downloads) Billede0293_resized.jpg (38KB - 94 downloads) Billede0294_resized.jpg (72KB - 84 downloads) Billede0296_resized.jpg (37KB - 87 downloads) Billede0298_resized.jpg (45KB - 92 downloads) Billede0306_resized.jpg (60KB - 92 downloads) Billede0307_resized.jpg (54KB - 97 downloads) | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | fitted and shimmed up the diff and put all the covers etc. on and put the engine back in the cars, connected everything up, put oil and water in and took it for a drive. worked very well and should be ready for racing this tuesday fitted a water-oil heat exchanger thing that the late mg metro's had which I had on a shelf. hopefully that will help warm up my new oil (castrol Vantage Racing IVI stuff) and later on during the day help keep it cool the water for this oil cooler/heater if coupled in series with the heater. also fitted a couple of stickers I bought Edited by DotMatrix 3/6/2012 8:03 PM  (Billede0019_resized.jpg)  (Billede0055_resized.jpg)  (Billede0057_resized.jpg)  (Billede0058_resized.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Billede0019_resized.jpg (72KB - 94 downloads) Billede0055_resized.jpg (51KB - 103 downloads) Billede0057_resized.jpg (48KB - 90 downloads) Billede0058_resized.jpg (70KB - 96 downloads) | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | was out racing this Tuesday the 5'th. was a good day, but as expected my 90hp metro is no match for a Porche 944. the new gearing and oil cooling/heating and repaired rocker pictured in my previous post worked great, no bad noises, and actually had use for 4'th gear this time which is a first, so that is great Edited by DotMatrix 7/6/2012 7:53 PM  (100_5157_resized.JPG) Attachments ---------------- 100_5157_resized.JPG (86KB - 126 downloads) | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | I have been doing a lot of racing this year and luckily not as much repairing as last year. the car have been driving really well. unfortunately I have a small issue with a rocker arm that had misplaced it self during valve float giving it nasty marks and a roller tip that doesn't roll, but then I learned something, so that doesn't matter I have bought a new rocker arm and the spacers to keep them in place during valve float (replaces the spring spacers) but I will wait until winter renovation to replace the rocker and put in the spacers. my last race is the next weekend, after that there is no more racing this year. For winter I have a plan to get the cylinder-head worked on in order to try and get those 10hp I need to get past 100hp by the way. I have uploaded a ton of pictures to my website from all the races this year: http://www.skjulestedet.dk/bilogmc/hillclimb.html all the picture albums from 2012 is new. I hope you like the pictures  (7887948596_5b840d8d47_h_resized.jpg)  (Munkebjerg 2012 014_big_resized.JPG)  (Munkebjerg 2012 199_big_resized.JPG)  (Munkebjerg 2012 216_big_resized.JPG)  (Munkebjerg 2012 217_big_resized.JPG)  (silkeborg3_big_resized.jpg)  (silkeborg167_big_resized.jpg)  (IMG_5486_big_resized.jpg)  (IMG_5500_big_resized.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 7887948596_5b840d8d47_h_resized.jpg (47KB - 133 downloads) Munkebjerg 2012 014_big_resized.JPG (79KB - 118 downloads) Munkebjerg 2012 199_big_resized.JPG (60KB - 123 downloads) Munkebjerg 2012 216_big_resized.JPG (60KB - 126 downloads) Munkebjerg 2012 217_big_resized.JPG (48KB - 128 downloads) silkeborg3_big_resized.jpg (54KB - 125 downloads) silkeborg167_big_resized.jpg (55KB - 137 downloads) IMG_5486_big_resized.jpg (40KB - 126 downloads) IMG_5500_big_resized.jpg (44KB - 139 downloads) | ||
| Roger Red Hat |
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The TV star Metro GTa 1.1i Posts: 1061 Location: Early, Reading. | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | just a small pic I found on the internet from the hill climb last weekend. notice the rear wheels  (jump.jpg) Attachments ---------------- jump.jpg (95KB - 139 downloads) | ||
| Pietaster |
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Admin Posts: 1576 Location: Burnley, Lancs | DotMatrix - 12/9/2012 7:58 PM just a small pic I found on the internet from the hill climb last weekend. notice the rear wheels I've said it before but this is one of my favourite A-series Metro's on the forum, it looks cool as 'owt! | ||
| jonathanpower82 |
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 Member Posts: 91 Location: Pentre, Wales | |||
| Marv_666 |
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 '88 MG METRO 1300 Posts: 1117 Location: Dudley, Midlands | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
| Marv_666 |
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'88 MG METRO 1300 Posts: 1117 Location: Dudley, Midlands | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | a picture from at couple of weekends ago where I received my price for 3'rd place in my group for the 2012 season. I had the same amount of points as the 2'nd place, but he had better positions so there for he is in second place (dammit!!) but am pleased with my 3'rd place never the less. will have to try and do better next season Edited by DotMatrix 20/11/2012 6:51 PM  (Oktober_2012_059_resized.JPG) Attachments ---------------- Oktober_2012_059_resized.JPG (49KB - 136 downloads) | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | so started work on this for the comming season. been so busy this fall & winter fixing daily driver (the rover 400 and 998 a-series) that I haven't had time or money to work on the blue racer at all, but the season is starting in not that long time, so will have to hurry up and fix a lot of small things before the 29'th of march when the first race is planed all though not a race counting in the series. I started fixing and upgrading the brakes. It needs a new pressure limiter, the hoses is ancient and the rear cylinders are a quick fix using a pair of old but not leaking pistons. so in this pipe of parts is a set of new brakehoses, a pressure limiter, a set of carbon metallic pads.   I renovated each brake slave cylinder using a new set of seals, and cleaned and greased up the adjuster in each side also. one of the brake linings in the right hand side was cracked, so I will change the brake shoes in that side next weekend. also re-greased the wheel bearings in the left hand side as they were a bit dry.   Edited by DotMatrix 21/1/2013 9:55 PM | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | did a few small things this weekend, but mainly wondered about how the brake pressure limiter works. found a spare I had and removed the one off my car, and cant quite figure it out, but I will get there maybe it says so in the workshop manual I have. (its not easy to see in the picture, but inside the nut there is a small spring) supposing that the thick round metal thing with a rubber band around and a spring on each side is supposed to move when you press the pedal then that was my problem as it was totally ceased to house.  this is a picture of the brake shoe that was cracked. changed that last weekend.  old brake hoses removed. still flexible and not cracked but very old.  new brake hoses (black diamond) fitted to one front wheel   | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | so I did a lot of small and insignificant things to the blue metro this weekend, cleaned a lot of dirt, under-sealant and sound proofing off, pained the rear drums, fixed the peeling white door squares, cleaned primed and painted the doors where they are rusting, installed my new g-force measurement device (fluffy dice) , heat wrapped the exhaust round the fuel tank and fuel pump and heat wrapped the exhaust manifold further down that before, although I did not finish that as you can see. didn't finish the brakes as I am waiting for answer from the racing historic organisation about whether or not I can take the brake line and pressure regulator in through the car instead of having it underneath as it normally is.             | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | fitted the two new rear brake-hoses, fitted the brake balance adjuster and the new brake lines which I fitted inside the car to better protect them and for easy access to the adjuster. Also heat-wrapped the rest of the manifold.     | ||
| mayoturbo |
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| Expert Posts: 2004 Location: Chepstow | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | mayoturbo - 18/3/2013 12:49 PM this car is very nice. You should get some alloy rear drums! nice weight saving thanks yes that would be nice, but is not allowed as it is build to historic regulations and it is not homologated with alloy drums sadly. | ||
| Metromartin |
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MP Admin Posts: 17870 Location: Gloucester | DotMatrix - 13/9/2012 12:58 AM just a small pic I found on the internet from the hill climb last weekend. notice the rear wheels Excellent picture!!! | ||
| mayoturbo |
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| Expert Posts: 2004 Location: Chepstow | DotMatrix - 18/3/2013 6:12 PM mayoturbo - 18/3/2013 12:49 PM this car is very nice. You should get some alloy rear drums! nice weight saving thanks yes that would be nice, but is not allowed as it is build to historic regulations and it is not homologated with alloy drums sadly.Didn't realise that! what a shame. what are you allowed to do to make it lighter? | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | mayoturbo - 18/3/2013 7:55 PM DotMatrix - 18/3/2013 6:12 PM mayoturbo - 18/3/2013 12:49 PM this car is very nice. You should get some alloy rear drums! nice weight saving thanks yes that would be nice, but is not allowed as it is build to historic regulations and it is not homologated with alloy drums sadly.Didn't realise that! what a shame. what are you allowed to do to make it lighter? I have removed all the sound deadning everywhere, removed all the interior besides the dashboard, rear viper motor and removed the sprinklers. All I am allowed to do besides this is to fit plastic windows (not front windscreen obviously), remove the heater and heater motor and remove the fog-lights I have front and rear. I could fit plastic bumpers if they were lighter, but I'm not sure they are. In theory the car has to be a replica of a car driven in the period, so all they did I'm allowed to do also, but unfortunately its almost impossible to find documentation for that sort of stuff as its more than 30 years ago. Besides what they did in the period with that car I'm also allowed to carry out the mods specified in the homologation papers but that is stuff like the brake adjuster I made a thread about some weeks ago which is also impossible to find. the homologation papers actually also allows me to fit a cut down rear subframe with tubular radius arms but they also impossible to find, don't think they were made for other cars than the original racing turbo's. So unfortunately I'm quite limited with regards to mods when following the historic rules | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Metromartin - 18/3/2013 7:06 PM DotMatrix - 13/9/2012 12:58 AM just a small pic I found on the internet from the hill climb last weekend. notice the rear wheels Excellent picture!!! yes. I wish I could find it in better quality | ||
| Roger Red Hat |
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The TV star Metro GTa 1.1i Posts: 1061 Location: Early, Reading. | alright mate! glad to see its all running well! ill have to pop by next time im about Denmark! | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Roger Red Hat - 20/3/2013 7:23 PM alright mate! glad to see its all running well! ill have to pop by next time im about Denmark! thanks. you are welcome | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Did some work to make the car ready for this fridays race. was out to try my new brake setup with the carbon pads, new wheel cylinders, and brake lines and they are great! but even with as little pressure as possible its still possible to lock up the rear wheels. removed the rockers to change a rocker that was damaged last year due to the valves floating at some point and then the rocker jumped off the valve and ended up looking like this. also changed the valve cap as it had been damaged. fitted a set of spacers between the rockers instead of the springs normally used to keep the rockers in place. this should keep the rocker in its place. I also welded a bracket onto each side of the rear subframe which mounts in the original holes where the strap mounts, this makes the subframe totally solid mounted. did some rust proofing with wax underneath as some places was due. also fitted my new seat belts             Edited by DotMatrix 27/3/2013 12:02 AM | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Here are a few pictures of my race last friday. It was a rally event, so not as many old cars as usually. Here are a few selected pictures, for more pictures see the full gallery here: http://www.skjulestedet.dk/bilogmc/2013kongensbro/Gallery1.html       | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | A picture of the results from the spring training-like event from where the pictures above is taken. I think they are pretty good compared to the other cars there.  Edited by DotMatrix 17/4/2013 11:06 PM | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | an other race "succesfully" completed. The route was 1.6km and was a very fast route which was great until someone spilled all their engine oil up the route which was then covered by dirt by some officials which made for exciting braking and turns and kind of took the top off everyones speed. I spend the route inspection and both training sessions fixing my car. it started fine and drove up on the trailer, drove fine down the trailer and into the place where we should park when not driving. then when we were to go out the car would not start due to the key not turning on the ignition to the coil etc. so I went about routing a wire from the battery to the coil which worked, then all of a suddon the pump couldn't deliver petrol to the carbs, so I continued to fix that. when finally both things were fixed my engine bay looked like a mess, but the car drove nicely as always but I had missed all my three non counting drives so now only had three that counted but never seen the route before as it was a brand new route. anyway it was a great day and a great route, cant wait till next outing anyway. here are a few pictures. the rest of the pictures can be seen here: http://www.skjulestedet.dk/bilogmc/2013nordjylland/Gallery1.html      | ||
| FreddieS |
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Elf eating dog breeder Posts: 10531 Location: Guildford | Absolutely love your car. Can I have my roll-cage back now One question, how are your carbs setup? They look like HIF38's due to the 4 bolt flange but cant work out how your throttle linkage works as normally they run with the cable to the middle of the two carbs?! Also the fact that the stock MG twin su mani is for HS2's with a 2 bolt flange not 4 bolt : Really want twins on my metro and short of running midget HS2's im stuck! | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | FreddieS - 13/5/2013 6:51 PM Absolutely love your car. Can I have my roll-cage back now One question, how are your carbs setup? They look like HIF38's due to the 4 bolt flange but cant work out how your throttle linkage works as normally they run with the cable to the middle of the two carbs?! Also the fact that the stock MG twin su mani is for HS2's with a 2 bolt flange not 4 bolt : Really want twins on my metro and short of running midget HS2's im stuck! thanks, I also quite like it no you cant have the roll cage back but at some point in the future I will be changing it to a fia approved light weight one, but wont be the next couple of years. my carbs is two normal HIF44 carbs (one off this same car (austin) and second off a rusty mg I bought for spares, so not 100% identical, but close enough normally dual HIF's consist of a left and a right carb, but these are two normal ones linked by a shortened linkage from a xj6 4.2 with dual HIF38's. the butterfly valve-axle thing sticks out on both sides of the carbs so I used them to link the carbs. see this image http://www.skjulestedet.dk/bilogmc/metropower/08082009/100_2584_resized.JPG from page three in the journal. here you can see the linkage. I didn't bother to link the chokes as it was more difficult, only connected one up as it isn't particular lean when cold anyway. the inlet manifold is an old mini item. I cant remember the cast number but I believe its a special tuning item meant for HS4/HS6 carbs. I had it on a shelf together with a lot of dual carb mini stuff. It was 1,5" internal diameter which I bored out to 1.75" when I did the carb set. edit: just want to add that dual HIFF's on a manifold like mine will not clear the stock brake servo which is part of the reason why I run dual servos. should I make something like this again I would fit a single DCOE 45 or 48 weber and keep the stock servo. much much easier than what I did Edited by DotMatrix 13/5/2013 7:30 PM | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | removed the ignition lock and made a switch box to place next to my cut-off switch. This way I wont have ignition problems again. sorry for the crap pictures. tried out a new mini camera thing    | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Last race I did a few quick fixes to finish my race, so today I moved the petrol pump back underneath the car, changed a bad battery terminal that kept needing cleaning from oxidation, filled various fluids and mounted my new start button box next to my circuit breaker. I think the car is ready now, so I still have next weekend to make a few improvements if I can think of any   Edited by DotMatrix 28/7/2013 10:00 PM | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | here is all the best pictures of my metro racing last weekend.            Edited by DotMatrix 16/8/2013 8:40 AM | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | took the cylinder head off in order to find out if a higher compression could be achieved through planing which I found it could not. any more planing and the valves will hit the pistons more than they all ready do.    | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | so I started to take the engine apart to have the block bored and 4 new pistons put in and I found that it was a god idea to take the engine apart now because the cam followers were very badly worn and pitted and there was a broken piston ring. new followers were ordered along with other things like gaskets etc. and the block is now cleaned and ready to be dropped of at the place where it is going to be bored. sorry about the bad pictures, I only had my phone with me and it takes very crappy pictures. when I put it back together I will try to remember my camera.       | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | picked the block up from boring. they had also honed the conrod big-end holes because they had become to big and the big-end bearings was moving inside them. the lovely new pistons was fitted to the conrods with new crosspins. cleaned and painted the block fitted crank, cam, followers and oil relief valve. during next week a set of new big end bearings should arrive so next weekend I should be able to finish assembling it.      | ||
| R100_vvc |
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 Expert Posts: 2029 Location: sittingbourne, kent | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | R100_vvc - 6/4/2014 11:27 PM excellent work! could you tell me what size wheels/off set you are running, yours seem to sit just right in the arches Thames wheels are normal 6x13" mini superlights with 175/50-13 tyres. Front flanges had the centre lugs machined off. Rear Drums are Cooper s with 1" spacer. All arches, front inner wings and front lower arch catched the tyre so have been Cut or bens back | ||
| Marv_666 |
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'88 MG METRO 1300 Posts: 1117 Location: Dudley, Midlands | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | finished making the combustion chambers bigger in the cylinderhad the other day and did a lot of work on the engine today. The engine is now assembled and ready to go in the car. I changed the axle in the rockers and some of the rocker bushes as they were spinning in the rockers arms. painted the cam-chain cover and back plate.             | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | so here's a few pictures from this years first race in the metro. it was very nice to be out again and the new engine is running very nicely!  needing rust work soon, I know   technical inspection before the race:  people showing interest and asking questions:     Edited by DotMatrix 21/4/2014 11:09 PM | ||
| Marv_666 |
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'88 MG METRO 1300 Posts: 1117 Location: Dudley, Midlands | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
| Marv_666 |
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'88 MG METRO 1300 Posts: 1117 Location: Dudley, Midlands | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | I were out racing again last saturday and here are a few pictures. it went really well and I came 2 in my group and in the top third of the 62 participants that day which I am really pleased with as it wasn't without technical difficulties and as it was a very fast route. I burned 3 spark plugs which is really bad news for my new engine build but I have booked a time at a rolling road later this month to get the engine adjusted correctly and it will also be nice to know what the new power output is so I am really hoping not to find any damamged pistons or anything when I remove the cylinder-head to check very soon. hopefully with an adjustment I will be able to keep up the pace of the guy in my group who were faster than me driving a mini clubman      | ||
| mini-mad-craig |
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 Elite Veteran Posts: 978 Location: Walderslade, Kent | |||
| Metromartin |
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MP Admin Posts: 17870 Location: Gloucester | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | thanks today I removed the cylinder head to check if everything was ok after burning af few sparkplugs. every thing looks fine but I allready see som vertical marks so I will get my father to look at those to check if it is a sign of a problem.   | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | and today the cylinder-head went back onto the car and the valves were adjusted etc. by the way, those 6 bolts that hold the inlet and exhaust on to the cylinder-head are by far the most annoying thing to assemble or disassemble on a metro engine looking forward to my rolling road session tuesday   | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | I'm back after a very good day of rolling roading at a very knowledgeable guys garage. the engine was tuned in nicely and ended up producing more than I expected. the measurement before fitting new pistons, raising the compression and working a bit on the combustion chambers was 90bhp and 96nm (there is a pic in this journal earlier) and now it has 107bhp and 117nm. which is great the dizzy had 24 degrees of mechanical advance and was advancing all the way up past 5000rpm and the rolling road guy wanted to limit that to 17 degrees so that it didn't drop to close to 0 degrees when at low revs so we welded a bit on the inside of the dizzy and adjusted it to hit the correct spot up high, this way I have both nice midrange ignition and high end ignition instead of having to choose   | ||
| MG mad |
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 Expert Posts: 2623 Location: Auckland, New Zealand | Cool, very nice result | ||
| MLC |
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| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | I fitted my new soft yokohama 048's to a set of ronals I had laying. the reason this image is not of them fitted on the car is that we didn't have any more balancing blocks so balancing and fitting will have to wait for next weekend, but they look really good I think. will look great with my white roll cage  | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | balanced the wheels and fitted them to the car and drove for a test drive even though it was a bit wet on the road they grip really well. during last race it developed a substantial blow in the exhaust. It turns out the exhaust was cracked all way round so we welded that up. also bought some solid front subframe mounts off petrol_head and I fitted the two front ones. didn't fit the two rear ones yet.              | ||
| Marv_666 |
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'88 MG METRO 1300 Posts: 1117 Location: Dudley, Midlands | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Marv_666 - 24/8/2014 11:48 PM I like those new wheels, the white matches the number square and cage as you say rather well! Not a fan of Minilights, but did like the way they sat in the arches... will have to wait on some action shots for a proper comparison!? More 'function over form' for you I guess though!?! Is the car bottoming out, or is that exhaust scraping from a puncture etc? I dont know when the exhaust hit something but I don't think it was during the race, the car isn't that low and there wasn't any jumps on the last race so I don't worry about it. perhaps it was during loading-unloading or during transport. yes it is definitely more function over form this car I really want to beat that clubman and those a112's I am in group with when racing but they are both really light and quick The minilights are great but I do have a little worry that the reduced wheel track with the new wheels will be bad for cornering speed compared to the minilights. But then these new wheels fixes other problems that the minilights has like them being so far out that they hit the arches when going over bumps or jumps as the new wheels will go up in the arches and the minilights didn't, an other thing is that the ET of the minilights made the inside wheels rub slightly when turning tight corners, and I suspect that the new ones doesn't do this, so looking forward to racing with these new ones but yes I do like the look both of the rims and the color scheme now action shots will come after next weekend when I go racing again so you wont have to wait long | ||
| Marv_666 |
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'88 MG METRO 1300 Posts: 1117 Location: Dudley, Midlands | |||
| Metromartin |
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MP Admin Posts: 17870 Location: Gloucester | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | thanks I also like them a lot. looking forward to seeing some action shots of myself after next weekend yes the mini-lights were 6" wide and these are 5.5" I believe. Arch clearance is definitely improved and so are side-wall movement, these are very stiff tyres, even stiffer in the side-wall than the a539's. I don't know about brake cooling if that is better or worse, but it isn't a problem in the short distances I race anyway. they are much softer in the compound and have more rubber touching the road so the idea is definitely to increase my cornering speed and I'm hoping on a substantial increase you are right about bearing and suspension loads, didn't think about that, but then again I haven't have problems with wearing out bearings or anything on the back I use cooper s drums with the build-in 1" spacer so they all wheels are pretty close to the back of the arches, but once I have driven some more with these wheels I will see if they should be moved out or anything. but cant move them out to much as I am planing to swap over the a539's when it rains (if these are better in the rain, I don't know?) if the a539's prove not to be better than these in the rain I might lower it a bit more but not too much as it is already a problem getting in on the trailer for transporting. but I might have to shorten the rods a bit more and pump some more pressure in because of the increased grip of these tyres perhaps? | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
| rallyxrich |
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| Member Posts: 34 | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | thanks ok. I did realize that the michelin rally tyres that some use are better than the a048's. do you know if these hankook's are DOT approved or E marked? where do you buy them and what do they cost? Edited by DotMatrix 27/9/2014 6:25 PM | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | So at the last race the car started not sounding well, there was clonking sounds and jerking in the car when maintaining a constant speed on the transport route and I didn't feel it had the power it should. So I have removed the engine and started to check it over and so far most look fine, the drop gear and diff is fine although I thought that either the centre drop gear or diff pin was worn through, but both were fine. I noticed a lot of copper shreds in the bottom of the gearbox which looked like stuff off bearing shells so I removed a couple of big end bearings caps and they were fine but then I removed the centre main bearing and it looked like you can see in the picture. the middle of it is wider than the ends as though it has been squashed and one of the thrust washers looked bad. so when I have time next weekend I will remove the crank and do some measurements and try to find out what went wrong.       | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | So this weekend I played with gearboxes I bought a close ratio first motion shaft and laygear (DAM3167 and DAM3168), found them on ebay, the laygear is new and the first motion shaft was said to be use but looks brand new. To make this into a close ratio A+ box I needed to use the second and third gears from a normal 4-synchro a-series box which is why I dug out an old 998cc mini engine, separated the engine and box and took it apart. I also went down and found a nice low mileage A+ box (50k miles) I had and took this apart as the housing that is currently in the car is cracked around the oil drain plug and has been recoiled various places so I wanted a fresh one. So now all that is left to do is to put it all together into the "new" housing with a new laygear shaft and new small bearings and first motion shaft bearing and then I have a close ratio box to put in my racer for this season I considered purchasing a lsd but dont think I need it that much but I am still considering whether or not to put in straight cut drop gears.       | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | fitting a lexan window in the rear. I do also have alle the rest of the windows but haven't fitted them yet. I hope there will be time before the first race, but maybe not.    Edited by DotMatrix 4/4/2015 10:18 PM | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | So the renovation of the engine and gearbox is in full progress fitted a new alternator with a slightly bigger diameter pulley. I wanted a new gearbox in the car as the old one had been recoiled several places, was cracked and without thread in the oil drain hole and was leaking many places. I had a nice low mileage a-plus gearbox that I used as a base for this new gearbox build, and I had the gears that you saw in earlier pictures. Also the combination of gears going in will give a helical close ratio gearset like the one in the 1275gt and cooper s but in an A-plus version.      | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | So I got a bit more work done this weekend. bot the differential shimmed up and assembled. measured the endfloat in the idler gear but was missing a shim in the right thickness so ordered one of those. also took the crank out and concluded that it needed to go in for a polishing and a checking if it is still straight. I would like to get it cross drilled to avoid this bearing failure in the future.    | ||
| Metromartin |
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MP Admin Posts: 17870 Location: Gloucester | Excellent build diary as usual! I spy my old wide steelies on the GTi | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Metromartin - 8/4/2015 6:56 PM Excellent build diary as usual! I spy my old wide steelies on the GTi thanks your old steel wheels indeed. that gti needs to be fixed and driven very soon. I have acquired an 1.4 engine which is complete and supposedly low mileage, I will be dropping that in. | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | news about the engine build. we talked to the engineering shop that I use to bore cylinders and grind cranks. they had my crank in for checking if it took damage and to have the bearing material polished off but they called back saying that the distance between the two trust-washer surfaces were very worn and the distances between them were 31.30mm and should be 30.090 and unfortunately they don't make thrust washers that thick so the old crank is scrap unfortunately. I really liked that crank as it has taken much abuse without breaking so instead I went down to my parts shelve and found a turbo crank I have had laying around. it is standard measurements on both thrust-washers, main bearings and big ends. I will not have it cross-drilled at this time as I really need to have the engine together this weekend as the first race is the weekend after. also there is some debate in A-series circles on whether or not a cross-drilled crank is needed. I have opted for a higher oil pressure right now, and I do believe that cross drilling is needed when operating at high revs like in a race engine and when your bearings only have the groove half way round. | ||
| Dave 20VTRO |
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| Elite Veteran Posts: 925 Location: Thinking of vvc'ing my Roadster Brabus :-) | DotMatrix - 9/4/2015 8:57 PM news about the engine build. we talked to the engineering shop that I use to bore cylinders and grind cranks. they had my crank in for checking if it took damage and to have the bearing material polished off but they called back saying that the distance between the two trust-washer surfaces were very worn and the distances between them were 31.30mm and should be 30.090 and unfortunately they don't make thrust washers that thick so the old crank is scrap unfortunately. I really liked that crank as it has taken much abuse without breaking so instead I went down to my parts shelve and found a turbo crank I have had laying around. it is standard measurements on both thrust-washers, main bearings and big ends. I will not have it cross-drilled at this time as I really need to have the engine together this weekend as the first race is the weekend after. also there is some debate in A-series circles on whether or not a cross-drilled crank is needed. I have opted for a higher oil pressure right now, and I do believe that cross drilling is needed when operating at high revs like in a race engine and when your bearings only have the groove half way round. Re the cross-drilling, if your old crank was cross-drilled and the shells were in good condition when you took them out then you have your answer. Also I would have a look for oversize thrust washers, after all 24 thou thicker per washer isn't that much. | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Dave 20VTRO - 9/4/2015 10:12 PM DotMatrix - 9/4/2015 8:57 PM news about the engine build. we talked to the engineering shop that I use to bore cylinders and grind cranks. they had my crank in for checking if it took damage and to have the bearing material polished off but they called back saying that the distance between the two trust-washer surfaces were very worn and the distances between them were 31.30mm and should be 30.090 and unfortunately they don't make thrust washers that thick so the old crank is scrap unfortunately. I really liked that crank as it has taken much abuse without breaking so instead I went down to my parts shelve and found a turbo crank I have had laying around. it is standard measurements on both thrust-washers, main bearings and big ends. I will not have it cross-drilled at this time as I really need to have the engine together this weekend as the first race is the weekend after. also there is some debate in A-series circles on whether or not a cross-drilled crank is needed. I have opted for a higher oil pressure right now, and I do believe that cross drilling is needed when operating at high revs like in a race engine and when your bearings only have the groove half way round. Re the cross-drilling, if your old crank was cross-drilled and the shells were in good condition when you took them out then you have your answer. Also I would have a look for oversize thrust washers, after all 24 thou thicker per washer isn't that much. my old crank wasn't cross-drilled, none of my cranks are and the bearings are always worn out. every single year I take the main bearings out and they are always worn out. the big end bearings last way longer, they last about two years. I know 24 thou isn't that much but I can only get std size and 3 thou oversize. the 30 thou oversize I can find a part number on aren't available from mini spares any more and they wont get them again. but yes. I ought to get the turbo crank cross drilled but there isn't time right now, I will probably get it reground and cross drilled next winter. | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | So today and yesterday I assembled and adjusted the engine. Adjusted valves, idler gear end-float, primary gear end-float and made a new battery bracket. Its very nice to have an engine that doesn't rattle or clatter anywhere, although I know full well that it will only last about 15 minutes of racing, then everything will make the usual noises turbo crank (CAM6581), new main and bigend bearings, turbo oil pump, new high flow waterpump, new alternator, lightweight battery. fitted the engine and gave it a new filter and new oil and went for a drive and it drove nicely.       Edited by DotMatrix 12/4/2015 10:01 PM | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | So I plan a bit of work on this car before the next season. I plan to change my dual carburettor setup for a single HIF44 as it should theoretically be just as good and as it is more correct, weighs less and takes up less space. I have collected 3 nice manifolds for a single SU carb which is supposed to be best flowing, a Howley, a Titan Motorsport and an Mg Metro manifold. I am considering building a diy flowbench to test which is actually the best and then use that on the engine. I also ported a HIF44 as you can see should be good to see what the rolling road says about the result.      Edited by DotMatrix 18/12/2015 10:05 PM | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | this weekend I took out the engine and took it apart. The cam and followers was worn out as expected but the bearings and the rest of the engine looked good luckily. I took the engine block and the crank to the machine shop to have the crank checked and the centre bearing cap changed for one with four bolts instead of the standard one with two bolts. when I have them back I will have them balanced together with a new lighter flywheel I have. tight schedule as the first race is the 7-8'th of may. the radiator was leaking so I will send that to be checked also.      Edited by DotMatrix 21/3/2016 9:32 PM | ||
| Metromartin |
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MP Admin Posts: 17870 Location: Gloucester | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Metromartin - 22/3/2016 1:38 PM Hi Martin, Saw this mk1 MG Metro Turbo with out engine and thought might be of interest to you! its in the Neatherlands! https://www.facebook.com/littlecarcompanyholland/posts/473308926191520 thanks for the link I have emailed them requesting price and condition. | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | I am in a bit of a hurry to fix the engine and change other stuff on the car before the first race the 7-8'th of may. Besides the engine fixing I need to change the windows for the plastic windows I have waiting and fit my new gearstick. so far I have removed the engine, dismantled the engine and had a new center bearing cap fitted and had the block line-bored.  | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | crank and flywheel balanced and fitted. ready for further engine assembly next weekend.   | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | I finished assembling the engine and it is now half way in the car. next weekend I will finish connecting everything up and run in the cam.    | ||
| willn |
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| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | willn - 18/4/2016 10:10 AM That engine is looking pretty. My other half races a 998 mini so I really need to learn how to build these. We're not allowed to build anything to your sort of spec tho, I think that would give her a little bit of an advantage! thanks in what series of racing? what are you allowed to do to it? you can do a lot with off the shelf parts | ||
| willn |
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| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | my radiator came back from the radiator reconditioning guy. he said that this type of mk1 radiator with metal ends is 4 times as effective as my old one which has an alloy core with plastic ends. further more they could not recondition my plastic-ended radiator. so if you have a metal ended radiator that is leaking, save it and have it reconditioned at some point. its cheaper than you think also the radiator has been fitted with stronger hose connectors and a coolant fan sensor from an opel astra (on at 87 degrees off at 82 degrees) which goes well with my 74 degree thermostat. the engine is now in and running. it sounds nice and I have a rolling road appointment for next week. it will be interesting to see if it makes a little more power and will also be fun to race it the 7'th and 8'th.   | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | the car is not assembled and running nicely, ready for the rolling road adjustment tomorrow. this weekend I fitted a perspex window and then ran out of sticky stuff. unfortunately I couldn't get new original rubber seals for non opening rear windows and don't have any that is worth reusing so fitted then with double sided tape and sticky stuff I also fitted larger drop stops which will be fun to try. have never tried that before.   | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | so I had it rolling roaded at 110bhp at 6900 rpm reving really nicely up to 7500 rpm, the engine was running really good sounding nicely and then after 1 lap of racing at this years first outing on a track this weekend, it lost power and I pulled over. in the pit I took the head off and was meet with a burned wall between cylinders 3 and 4 and a burned head gasket. crap. engine out and the block is off to the machine shop again. an other thing I don't like is that my expensive new cam is scorred on one of the lobes after only 2 hours of running      | ||
| Marv_666 |
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'88 MG METRO 1300 Posts: 1117 Location: Dudley, Midlands | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | Marv_666 - 9/5/2016 12:41 PM I don't want to comment on your luck with engines in case it jinxes you... but with MY luck, I wouldn't be surprised if it happened to me! 110bhp is a bloody nice figure though! That's a 50% increase over my stock engine! Thanks Yes it is quite annoying with this latest break down. I was hoping for it to last the full season like last year. It will be interesting to see what it will cost to have this hole fixed. Yes it seems that when tuned enough the time between rebuilds is short | ||
| KLAS |
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| Regular Posts: 112 Location: Hamburg, Germany | |||
| KLAS |
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| Regular Posts: 112 Location: Hamburg, Germany | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | KLAS - 12/5/2016 11:21 PM regarding your new cam, did you check if the tappets did actually turn during lifting? there are quite a lot of new ones out there not ground to the correct radius. they will eat your cam in no time. sometimes they just need some help to start turning and work right after break-in. sadly most of the time the cam maker will tell you that you used the wrong break-in lube, or not enough of it, no propper break-in procedure, or the wrong engine oil, etc. can it be checked if they are turning while the engine is running? by watching the push rods? help them start turning how? but no, they are not turning all of them, this was clearly visible when I removed them from the wear marks. yes I can imagine the range of excuses that cam makers can come up with. but so far they have been very helpfull in answering my questions, last question they send was to measure the installed spring height. probably to determine if they wear is caused by spring crush. but the cam and tappets are going in again as they are as I need to be racing again the 11'th of june Edited by DotMatrix 12/5/2016 11:02 PM | ||
| KLAS |
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| Regular Posts: 112 Location: Hamburg, Germany | DotMatrix - 12/5/2016 11:59 PM KLAS - 12/5/2016 11:21 PM regarding your new cam, did you check if the tappets did actually turn during lifting? there are quite a lot of new ones out there not ground to the correct radius. they will eat your cam in no time. sometimes they just need some help to start turning and work right after break-in. sadly most of the time the cam maker will tell you that you used the wrong break-in lube, or not enough of it, no propper break-in procedure, or the wrong engine oil, etc. can it be checked if they are turning while the engine is running? by watching the push rods? help them start turning how? but no, they are not turning all of them, this was clearly visible when I removed them from the wear marks. yes I can imagine the range of excuses that cam makers can come up with. but so far they have been very helpfull in answering my questions, last question they send was to measure the installed spring height. probably to determine if they wear is caused by spring crush. but the cam and tappets are going in again as they are as I need to be racing again the 11'th of june yes, you can watch them turning, i use some bright paint at the push rod end. the push rods won't turn on its own so it's a good indicator that the tappets are turning. after you made sure the tappets will turn during assembly but you notice it will not turn when running a small twist at the push rod end may help. but watch your fingers. if they won't turn during assenbly there is a problem that needs correcting. mostly the tappets can be reground, if you can find a shop that still has the correct tooling to do so. | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
| KLAS |
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| Regular Posts: 112 Location: Hamburg, Germany | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | so I the block and cylinderhead had come back from the machine shop and I have started assembling it today. you can see in the pictures where they welded the block. I took the valves out to to measure the installed spring height and I noticed that especially the exhaust valves were in quite a bad shape, they were pitted and all black so I cut the 45 degree angle on them again and started lapping them in. also started to assemble the engine and got as far as possible. now I am waiting for a 4.6:1 final drive I ordered before I can continue.     | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | some of the valves was not so great looking so I cut a bit of material off the exhausts and was busy lapping the valves in. When I got to valve number 7 I noticed that the seat had a crack in it going all the way through so I dropped the cylinder head off at the machine shop and they said they would fix it during this week. The guys in the machine shop are getting to know me quite well other than that I changed my 4.13:1 gearing for a 4.66:1 gearing which will lower the speed at 7500rpm in 4'th from 167km/h to 150km/h which will be more reachable.    | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | last weekend I assembled the engine and put it back into the car. I have done all the adjustments needed and hopefully it will last a little longer this time anyway this is two pictures of me checking the cam timing and putting the engine back in.   | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | I went to a rally-MOT which is an additional MOT I have to attend to show that the car still complies with the rules. there the MOT guy could enlighten me about a new rule from FIA that stated that wires were not allowed to pass between the roll-cage and the body of the car which the wire going to the back of the car did. So I cut them and put plugs on them and passed them through inside the cill instead. Also I was told to use 3x 6mm bolts for the fire extinguisher instead of 2.     Edited by DotMatrix 31/7/2016 2:07 PM | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | headgasket blew again in the same place. this time there was no hole in the block or head, so after some cleaning up both surfaces was level enough to put in a new gasket. I have tightened the head down first to 75nm and then three separate times I loosened each nut 90 degrees and then tightened it to 85nm after a drive in the car and each time the nut would tighten a bit more. which is worrying.    | ||
| Benmin |
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 Regular Posts: 117 Location: New Zealand | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
| forcker |
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 Regular Posts: 241 Location: Germany | |||
| forcker |
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Regular Posts: 241 Location: Germany | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | so I did some work on this car this weekend. fitted a new head gasket, fitted new stronger head studs and fitted a tap to take water out of the end opposite the thermostat. I moved the thermostat down inside the housing and I then connected the new tap to the old heater tap which is now on the radiator side of the thermostat this is then effectively a bypass hose. this is the only bypass now, I do not have the heater connected or anything, so it will be exciting to see how this works. in the mean time I took the clutch cover off to change what I thought was a knackered release bearing but it turned out to be the clutch pressure plate that had come apart. the problem is now that the clutch is stuck on the crankshaft and we have not yet been able to pull it off.      Edited by DotMatrix 4/9/2016 9:59 PM | ||
| MetroGaz |
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| Veteran Posts: 335 Location: York, tis Cold Up North! | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | here is a picture of where the clutch had welded it self to the crankshaft. no wonder it was so difficult to get off  | ||
| R100_vvc |
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Expert Posts: 2029 Location: sittingbourne, kent | Most people would of given up by now with the number of issues you have been having, good on you for keeping at it | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | R100_vvc - 12/9/2016 11:14 PM Most people would of given up by now with the number of issues you have been having, good on you for keeping at it yes there have been a lot of trouble this year. haven't done one race this year without it breaking and yesterday when I pulled the dipstick it was all creamy so currently looking at that problem hoping to fix it before the last race of the season in the weekend. I think I will have to make a new block for the next season but hopefully not a new cylinderhead. | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | The engine is out again and everything looked great apart from the blown headgasket and the water in the cylinders which I allready knew about. The last two headgaskets have blown between the water way and cylinder number 4. this change in behaviour happened after I rerouted the water and fitted better headstuds and bolts.     | ||
| DotMatrix |
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Expert Posts: 4458 Location: Jelling, Denmark | |||
